Illustration Ellen AtlantaBeautyBeauty FeatureAn ode to Chappell Roan’s make-up, the hottest thing in beauty right nowSpeaking to the singer’s make-up artists, Ellen Atlanta unpacks her beauty and how it expresses her creativity in limitless waysShareLink copied ✔️July 11, 2024BeautyBeauty FeatureTextEllen AtlantaIn photos: Chappell Roan’s beauty evolution22 Imagesview more + What do the Statue of Liberty, drag queen Divine, a pink butterfly and Swan Lake all have in common? They’re all looks that have recently been brought to life by Chappell Roan – the rising pop star and beauty icon we didn’t know we needed. Roan’s beauty philosophy is a masterclass in cultural synthesis, effortlessly blending elements from contemporary drag culture, clowncore exuberance and club kid counterculture – it’s New Romantics meets Pre-Raphelites, with a twist of the “ugly beauty” movement made mainstream by the likes of Julia Fox and Doja Cat. Roan’s looks pay homage to the past while feeling utterly of the moment, speaking to a generation that craves both nostalgia and innovation. This ability to inhabit multiple aesthetics marks the birth of a new wave of artists: those raised online, with access to an endless archive of visual references and a desire to express multifaceted identities. “Chappell doesn’t care about anything mainstream,” explains make-up artist Donni Davy, who created Roan’s Coachella looks. “She has given herself the freedom to express her creativity in limitless ways.” This creative freedom is evident in Roan’s ever-evolving looks and her willingness to embody different characters – from her now signature white-faced, blue-eyed glamour to more extreme transformations like her sexy Statue of Liberty-inspired entirely green-skinned look at the Governors Ball, complete with spiked lashes, silver highlighter and a matching green lip. “It’s referencing many different things, but it all feels like part of the same movement,” says Andrew Dahling, the make-up artist behind Roan’s Swan Lake, Statue of Liberty and Divine looks. “Whether it was in the 80s or the early 2000s, it was the same subculture – the weirdos. The return of the New Romantics feels true to the spirit and nature of what’s happening here with Chappell and her team.” More than style statements or larger-than-life looks, Roan’s beauty choices act as complex cultural texts that comment on issues of gender, identity and the nature of beauty itself. As an openly queer lesbian pop star, her beauty choices challenge conventional beauty ideals and patriarchal standards – rejecting the male gaze and the typically fetishised image of female fame. Take her appearance on Jimmy Fallon, where Roan’s look went against all the “rules” of make-up that are designed to make you more “attractive” – she lightened her lashes instead of darkening them, added red to her under eyes rather than getting rid of the redness, painted her lips a pale, shimmering green. Roan’s aesthetic choices are not just about personal style – they carry political weight. By championing drag-inspired looks and queer culture references, she’s unapologetically projecting her identity and making a bold statement in a time when LGBTQ+ rights are under attack. The homage to drag goes beyond mere aesthetics – Roan actively collaborates with and uplifts drag artists, creating a symbiotic relationship that feels authentic and respectful. Her visuals serve as a form of resistance, celebrating the power of personal expression in the face of oppression. “With the way the world is now, there’s so much to be serious about,” says Dahling. “You see things falling apart and feel like the only logical reaction is that we’re totally doomed. Chappell’s approach is inspiring, beautiful and fun. The psychological aspect of needing a sense of freedom, control and excitement in life is what inspires subcultural movements – from the club kids to the New Romantics – it’s always a reaction to something.” What sets Roan apart is her willingness to embrace imperfection and messiness – to such an extent that audiences question whether her make-up ‘malfunctions’ are accidental or intentional. The famous ‘lipstick on teeth’ look from her breakthrough NPR Tiny Desk concert was a deliberate choice, challenging the pristine image often expected of female artists in a moment that she knew would be viewed by millions. “Every girl, boy or they/them who has put on lipstick has at some point gotten lipstick on their teeth,” laughs Sterling Tull, the make-up artist behind that look. “Being on the Tiny Desk stage was one of Chappell’s most vulnerable moments, a catapulting career event. She’s doing this big, amazing thing, but there’s a little lipstick on her teeth to really bring her back to earth.” As Roan’s tour make-up artist Ali Scharf explains, “She’s not afraid to be bold and maximalist. She loves to sometimes embody beauty in the traditional sense, but other times completely flip it around and be different, scary or weird. It shows a sense of vulnerability – she doesn’t take herself too seriously while also taking herself seriously as an artist.” This rejection of perfectionism resonates deeply with a generation grappling with impossible beauty standards perpetuated by social media. Roan’s approach invites her audience to play, experiment and find joy in self-expression without fear of judgement. “Make-up is not just for making yourself feel more ‘beautiful,’” says Tull. “It’s also for making yourself feel more confident and fearless.” Like the club kids of the 80s and 90s, Chappell was self-styled for the majority of her career. But in what feels fitting for a beauty aesthetic drawn from collectivism, she has now formed her own creative collective – a team of emerging beauty talent who each bring their own perspective and contribute to the construction of her world. This approach feels refreshingly communal in an often individualistic industry. As hairstylist Dom Forletta explains, “It really feels super collaborative, and it’s rare to come by a job where they really value your input.” For those inspired by Roan’s fearless approach, the key is to embrace experimentation. As Tull advises: “Do something that scares you. And if it doesn’t work, it doesn’t work. I hate seeing people discourage themselves. As long as you’re putting make-up on your face, you’re doing the damn thing. You can have lipstick on your teeth and it doesn’t matter, as long as you have fun.” Scharf agrees: "Chappell loves glitter, gems, big lashes, a matte lip, and a really blushy cheek - but the mindset that there are no rules is key. Play around! Do whatever you want and don't be afraid to make mistakes." What makes Roan’s approach to beauty so important is its inherent rejection of categorisation. Her ability to shape-shift and to play with identity, in a world that often tries to put people – especially women and non-binary folks – into neat little boxes, is a reminder that beauty can be a form of resistance. In doing so, perhaps paradoxically, she has firmly established herself as the hottest thing in beauty right now.