How make-up artist Ninni Nummela created this athletics-themed beauty shoot

Make-up can often be used as a mask to hide behind, a tool to conceal and alter our features, removing them of all uniqueness and character in order to fit certain ideals. For make-up artist Ninni Nummela, though, make-up is all about enhancing and emphasising these very differences. “I intend to accentuate each person’s unique features rather than conforming to trends or relying heavily on products,” she says. “I believe beauty is deeply personal and, in my work, my aim is to highlight the beauty and character of the woman I’m working with.”

The Finnish make-up artist, now based in London, got her start assisting Charlotte Tilbury before branching out on her own and has since worked on shoots with Kate Moss, Robert Pattinson for Esquire, and Adut Akech for British Vogue. Nummela’s approach to beauty and her sophisticated, minimal aesthetic – “imperfect but still glamorous and modern,” as she describes it – has made her a sought after make-up artist and a natural choice of ambassador for Chanel Beauty, a brand that shares her philosophy of ‘less is more’ and focus on enhancing rather than masking.

In a new shoot for the Summer 2024 issue of Dazed, Nummela created a series of beauty looks inspired by the Summer Olympics that exuded health, athleticism and allure using the new Chanel Les Beiges Summer Spirit collection. “The focus of this shoot was on the skin. Rather than concealing, we wanted to maintain a natural and authentic skin texture, utilising various techniques to achieve different effects,” she says. “From the glossy skin reminiscent of 90s supermodels to the effortlessly undone look of slept-in liner paired with dewy, wet skin.”

Dazed spoke to Nummela about the new shoot, her creative process and working with Chanel.

Growing up, what informed your understanding of beauty and the way you presented yourself visually?

Ninni Nummela: Growing up, I loved buying magazines like The Face, i-D and Dazed & Confused. They were my go-to for inspiration and reference for style and culture. The supermodels and 90s minimal grunge became my first sources of inspiration and my introduction to fashion and beauty. I’ve always kept my own look minimal, lived-in and real. However, growing up in the 90s did mean I too opted for plucked, thin brows, brown lip liner, and the palest lipstick I could find. 

One of my earliest memories of make-up is watching my mom get ready. She didn’t wear bold red lipstick or dramatic smokey eyes; instead, she favoured a minimal and natural look, using just a swipe of brown mascara and a brownish-wine lipstick applied as a stain on her lips. This approach has definitely influenced my make-up style. I aim to conceal as little as possible, instead focusing on accentuating the individual beauty of the people I work with.

Why are you a make-up artist? What made you want to become one?

Ninni Nummela: For as long as I can remember, I’ve been passionate about creating things with my hands. As a child, I would often do hair and make-up for friends and family. While painting on a canvas never interested me, I’ve always enjoyed painting faces, enhancing features and using make-up as a tool to highlight beauty. 

What is your creative process? How do you translate an initial creative vision into a final look?

Ninni Nummela: My creative process begins with understanding the overall vision of the project. This involves collaborating closely with the creative team, including designers, stylists and photographers to capture the mood, theme and aesthetic they want to communicate. I gather references, look at the models to decide what complements them, and take the lighting and set into consideration. Whether it’s for the runway, red carpet or for a shoot, my goal is to create an impactful make-up look that not only reflects the creative vision but also accentuates the model’s natural beauty.

Why was Chanel a brand you were excited to be an ambassador for?

Ninni Nummela: Chanel has always been a favourite brand of mine. Its timeless aesthetic, inspired by the visionary Gabrielle Chanel, has always resonated with me. Gabrielle Chanel’s empowering influence has allowed women to aspire and explore their beauty, making her an icon for strong, aspirational women around the world.

 How would you describe the Chanel aesthetic? Are there creative codes that you always stick to?

Ninni Nummela: The Chanel aesthetic is effortlessly chic. It embodies a sense of refinement while maintaining a modern edge. When creating looks for CHANEL, my goal is to always bring out the beauty inherent in the aesthetic. The attention to detail is important, ensuring every element, from colours to textures, contributes to a modern look that aligns with the essence of the brand. 

Can you tell us more about the beauty looks you did for the Dazed shoot?

Ninni Nummela: The beauty looks are all about a play on textures; glossy, almost wet skin, healthy flushed cheeks, vinyl lids and smudged, imperfect liner. Lived-in looks that are sexy, yet modern. While the colours were kept in line with the monochromatic palette of Chanel’s Les Beiges collection, the looks all have an element of boldness. A strong, defined chocolate lip paired with highlighted, fresh skin, a monochromatic beige look using the same colour on the eyes, cheeks and lips, and a black kohl liner smudged in the lower rim with wet, almost sweaty skin. 

How do you balance keeping the make-up looks classic while at the same time moving them forward and staying creative and innovative?

Ninni Nummela: Staying authentic to your unique aesthetic is key. By drawing inspiration from different sources and things around you, trends, and new products, you can experiment and innovate while maintaining your distinctive style. We all perceive beauty and the world differently, which is the essence of creativity. I believe that my work, particularly my use of colours and textures, can inspire others to try something new and experiment with products. Ultimately, it’s about creating looks that are both timeless and contemporary, ensuring they remain relevant and inspirational.

Hair Laurence Walker at Streeters, make-up Ninni Nummela at Streeters using Chanel Les Beiges Summer Spirit collection and No 1 de Chanel range, nails Sasha Goddard at Saint Luke Artists, using Chanel Le Vernis in Ballerina and Chanel la Crème Main, model Louise Robert at Viva, set design Jack Appleyard, lighting Pedro Faria, photographic assistants Georgia Williams, Lucy Rooney, make-up assistant Lesley Vye Tel, set design assistant Eleanor Chaplino, digital operator Alex Brunacci, production Rosie Cartwright, production coordinator Adam Wells, production assistant Melina Bryant, casting Emma Matell at MA+ Talent, casting assistant Oliwia Jancerowicz