Alternative subcultures would be nowhere without goths, a group of stereotypically morose individuals that have been darkening the realms of fashion, music and film since they began spawning from Soho’s Batcave club back in the 80s. Since then, we have seen endless goth-adjacent trends and styles, with the subculture infiltrating all corners of the world. To celebrate World Goth Day today (May 22), we look back on all of these offshoots: the deathrock and darkwave of the 80s; Japan’s visual kei; the cybergoths of Cyberdog and the early 00s mall goths; health goth and pastel goth waves of early Tumblr; TikTok’s current gothcore and dark academia aesthetics; and the haute goth of the runways that pops up every few years or so. In 2024, a year where goth is creeping back into mainstream culture, it’s hard to imagine exactly where our wardrobes, beauty routines, and Spotify likes would be without them. There’d be no whispers of Whitby Goth Weekend and we definitely wouldn’t have icons like The Cure, The Crow or The Craft.

Lighting a candle to the sons and daughters of darkness, we round up some of our favourite goths, as well as people inspired by gothic sentimentalities, for a Monster Mash of epic proportions. We can’t include everybody, that would take far too long, so it’s mostly just the girls. Just be grateful we didn’t include Jojo Siwa again.

PATRICIA MORRISON

The holy gothmother. Patricia Morrison, wife of The Damned lead singer Dave Vanian, though also an iconic name in her own right, was invited to join Leeds goth band Sisters of Mercy as their first female counterpart five years into their tenure in 1985. It was an ironic name, seeing as it was entirely a bunch of blokes before (although they shouldn’t be dunked on too hard, as they were the forefathers of goth music). Morrison has also been in bands like The Gun Club, Fur Bible, Alice Bag Band, The Sisterhood, as well as also playing with her husband in The Damned. 

SKIN

Skunk Anansie isn’t exactly a goth band, but they cover similarly gritty topics even as a 90s Britrock band. Plus they’re named after a cartoon spider. Legendary frontwoman and self-proclaimed “fashion ho” Skin – known for wearing black almost exclusively, with heavy eye make-up – has historically “been a goth for a while and hung out in gay clubs,” according to this 2009 interview from The Guardian.

ELVIRA

Played by the naturally ginger actress Cassandra Peterson, Elvira may be a fictional character, but her jet-black hair and perfectly applied eyeliner (just as sharp and dark as her wit) have been inspirational to goths everywhere since she swept onto screens in the early 80s.

MANA SAMA

According to a Reddit thread, Japanese visual kei artist Mana Sama was born to two musician parents in 1969 and attended music school. However, inspiration struck after seeing Mötley Crüe on tour in the 80s at a formative age. And praise Satan he did, because where would the ex-Malice Mizer musician be without his meticulously backcombed black hair and gender-defying outfits?

SHALOM HARLOW

Not exactly who you’d first think of when you hear the word goth, but hear me out: Harlow was discovered as a teenager while in the crowd for The Cure at a Toronto concert, so she is undeniably the most goth-coded out of all of the supermodels. Her often-dark hair, skinny brows and pale vampiric skin wouldn’t go amiss at Slimelight, though she’s likely far too chic for that.

SIOUXSIE SIOUX

It would be an actual crime against goths if Siouxsie Sioux wasn’t included in this list, so here she is. Siouxsie and the Banshees were one of the biggest genuine goth bands of the 80s, and without her the band wouldn’t even have its name. Originally affiliated with the 70s punk scene and often pictured wearing early Vivienne Westwood pieces, even if you’re a newborn baby who has never discovered subcultures before you’d probably have seen her picture across the internet somewhere.

JOEY JORDISON 

Ex-Slipknot drummer and Murderdolls guitarist Joey Jordison was the poster child for nu-metallers everywhere. He was most infamously known for playing the most intense drum solos imaginable whilst being held upside down in the air, with his poker straight jet black hair flying all over the place in the process. 

BABYMETAL

You can’t just pick one member of Babymetal because it almost feels like you’re picking on children, even though the three girlies are now well into their twenties. Originally starting as a trio of angsty tween prodigies back in 2010, the three-piece J-metal collective – consisting of Suzuka Nakamoto (Su-metal), Moa Kikuchi (Moametal) and Momoko Okazaki (Momometal) – are still inspiring their fans to experiment with gothic lolita style looks today.

ALICE GLASS 

Canadian singer and songwriter Alice Glass has been an inspiration to all the goth-leaning members of the original indie sleaze crowd since the glory days of MySpace. The co-founder and former frontwoman of Crystal Castles, who we no longer keep in our Spotify playlists due to the alleged mistreatment she suffered at the hands of her bandmate Ethan Kath, is keeping the spirit alive in her work as a solo artist. Her messy eyeliner and choppy bob will likely still be posted on alt-beauty moodboards for decades to come.

ANA CURRA

In 1982, Ana Curra joined the post-punk band Paralisis Permanente – cult originators of the ‘dark sound’ of the Movida Madrileña countercultural movement – as a guest artist. Tragically, and only six gigs in, frontman Eduardo Benevente ended up in a car accident that cost him his life, and Ana never performed with the band again (though she did provide vocals for them decades later, and create music with other alternative Spanish bands). 

AMY LEE

The hauntingly gorgeous Evanescence lead has been posted up on the bedroom walls of goth teens ever since they first laid eyes on the Fallen debut album cover, with Lee’s piercing blue eyes and signature eyebrow piercing peeking out from her heavily oversaturated face. Bring us to life, Amy Lee.

TARA YUMMY

The current internet it-girl isn’t a goth by any means, but her Y2K mall-goth-inspired outfits are being emulated en masse by all the cool alternative girls with TikTok access, each attempting the Tara Yummy ‘perfect eyeliner’ routine. You’ll often see her lip-syncing to a trending sound, in podcast clips or fan edits cut to soundbites of ‘Yummy’ by Ayesha Erotica, hanging out with her ex Jake Webber and his roommate Johnnie Guilbert, and starring in a Heaven by Marc Jacobs campaign. But she’s no poser, she knows her stuff – she’s even met Tommy Lee and Insane Clown Posse. Have you? Didn’t think so.

JESSICKA ADDAMS 

Last but not least, and in the spooky 13th spot, let’s light a candle for Jessicka Adams: visual artist (she once had a joint art show with Lindsey Way) and frontwoman of riot goth band Jack Off Jill and, later, Scarling. Her lifetime commitment to the goth agenda should be celebrated, proving that dabbling in goth isn’t always “just a phase”.