Why are mukbangs so hot?

“Discovering the sound of someone eating was a fetish for me,” says photographer Enzo Tonati. “All the crispy sounds made while eating were very captivating.” Tonati started watching mukbang videos two years ago. As someone who finds great pleasure in food, he was drawn to the feasts being consumed by creators like minimalist artist Muk Sna and the access it gave him to foods from all over the world. “Eating is a fetish for me because I deeply love it. It greatly influences my mood and I can feel elated after a good lunch,” he says. “Mukbang allows me to experience eating without physically consuming food.”

Originating from South Korea, mukbangs involve people filming long videos of themselves feasting on large quantities of food. They have become hugely popular as part of the ASMR universe of online content, with millions of people tuning in for the sensory enjoyment of watching people slurp, chew and crunch their way through meals. It’s extremely satisfying and, for some, hypnotic and erotic.

“Mukbang is a trend that speaks to everyone because we all have to eat to live. It’s something our bodies require,” says Tonati on why the content has become such a big phenomenon. “The influence of various lockdowns may have affected our relationship with food as we had to cook more and search for recipes online. Today, with the societal pressures of beauty standards and body control, eating massive amounts of food can be seen as disruptive.”

Inspired by his obsession, Tonati created a shoot that reimagines the mukbang through a fashion lens. Teaming up with hairstylist Bastien Zorzetto, make-up artist Lauren Bos, nail artist Alex Feller and stylist Benoit Paquet, he wanted to showcase the rich textures and colours of food while elevating and pushing the boundaries of the mukbang aesthetic. “This series is made for food lovers, for those who can’t resist a juicy snow crab or a sweet bubble tea. Red, purple, shiny or crunchy, no one can resist a good meal!” he says. Taking food as the starting point, the fashion and beauty looks took inspiration from the shiny, juicy, jelly culinary textures, as well as the Y2K aesthetic of Britney Spears looks from the 2000s and natural textures like pearls and glitters.

When it came to the food itself, Tonati wanted to ignite people’s curiosity about the potential of food by creating their own dishes for the shoot. Food designer Alice Malaret joined the team to help build the artistic and sensual universe around the mukbang trend. “We wanted to incorporate elements of Korean food, such as ramen, noodles, boba and seaweed. Maintaining consistency between the food and the looks was crucial,” she says. “It was a challenge because we wanted to use radiant colours like deep blue and flashy green, which are not naturally occurring in food.”

Blue udon noodles, jelly noodles and dyed coloured eggs and matching soups were created by the team, all of which were 100 per cent edible and vegetarian. “I incorporated jelly a lot because its shiny and glassy texture matched the make-up and nail looks. I also played with slimy textures using coconut jelly and soaked chia seeds. Edible flowers were used for a ‘kawaii’ twist, and different types of seaweed were included to maintain the vegetal and natural vibe that is part of my food identity.” 

While the shoot celebrates the multitude of pleasures associated with food and eating, it was also a way for Tonati to explore the themes of desire, addiction and excess which loom so large in our culture. It’s a warning, as well as a feast for the senses. Food, as something which provides pleasure, can become an addiction and so we eat even when we don’t have an appetite, he says. And mukbangs are content which we view on social media and our phones, which also create dependence.

“I believe the combination of both can become a trap: constantly scrolling through unlimited food videos, which stimulates appetite, while getting stuck in deep scrolling at the same time,” says Tonati. “Additionally, some mukbang artists focus on consuming massive amounts of food and engage in calorie competitions. This can have an effect on the body, and in Korea, the government has decided to regulate mukbang as part of their plan to address obesity rates in the country.”

Model Bruna Geller, photography Enzo Tonati, hair Bastien Zorzetto, make-up Lauren Bos, nails Alex Feller, food design Alice Malaret, casting Annabelle Elisabeth Rose Deumié, styling Benoit Paquet, agent at ARTLIST Cléa Grandpierre.