Versace’s show this season was a tribute to Prodigy frontman Keith Flint who died earlier this year. Before the show, Donatella dedicated the collection to her old friend who she described as the embodiment of “disruption.” Set to the soundtrack of the band’s classic hit “Firestarter,” models stormed the runway wearing a series of rave-inspired looks including tie-dye t-shirts and bold baroque-print trousers. Guido Palau headed up the hair which was dyed pink, yellow and green and spiked into horns, calling back to Flint’s signature style. The make-up look, meanwhile, was effortless radiance as only Pat McGrath can do. With no colour on eyes or lips, attention was kept on the models’ flawless dewy skin.
This season, Philipp Plein showed a rock-inspired collection with beauty looks to match. Hairstylist Tina Outen created a series of styles that would be at home on any stadium stage from long, wavy biker hair held back by bandanas to braided updos pinned up with nails to slicked-back pompadours with an Elvis-style loose strand. Beautick, meanwhile, took care of the make-up which involved a lot of smudged black eyeliner and black lipstick. Some models walked the runway in KISS-inspired painted faces, while another rocked a glittering pink Bowie-style lightening bolt.
Marni brought the carnival to town this season with a collection that was Truman Capote meets Ernesto Che Guevara according to designer Francesco Risso. A call for a more sustainable ethos in fashion, the collection reflected the corruption of nature by human civilisation as guests stood under a canopy made from single-use plastic collected from debris found in the ocean. Hair by Claudio Furini was left long and loose and mostly tucked under a series of “wedding hats” by Georgian artist Shalva Nikvashvili who is known for re-appropriating found objects and waste materials into masks. Make-up by Francesca Angelone was left beautifully simple, leaving the focus on the jumbled patchwork of colour and patterns that was the clothes and hats. While skin was kept natural and clean, some models did walk with strips of colour painted down their arms.
Fendi’s collection this season took inspiration from nature making it only natural that the show should be set in the lush gardens of Villa Reale, an 18th Century neoclassical villa outside of Milan. Models carried wateringcan bags and wore gardening hats as they walked the gravel runway in botanical-inspired prints including a collaboration with ‘Call Me By Your Name’ director Luca Guadagnino. Beauty big dogs Sam McKnight and Peter Philips were on hair and make-up which was kept very natural in keeping with the theme. “Natural ease hair, amongst the gardens with light mists of #modernhairspray & minimal control with a light pomade,” McKnight explained of the hair which was gently tousled. Make-up was simple with a focus on beautiful skin.