VETEMENTS AW15

Initial reaction:

Inside a Parisian sex club, anonymous design collective VETEMENTS (one of the city’s breakout talents) goes hardcore. Institutional Paris is over. Let the rebirth begin.

The look:

Industrial androgyny pushed to extremes. Deconstructed and oversized shearling jackets were combined with waist-cinched harness belts (complete with a slot for your Oyster card), topped off with skin-tight snakeskin platforms. Continuing to work with street cast models, including Dazed photographer Harley Weir, the show was all about celebrating individualism. It was testament to the community they've created around them – and in fashion, that's the biggest way to make a statement.

Paris is burning:

“In Paris all of the good clubs shut down in the 70s,” said one of the seven designers that make VETEMENTS after the show. Much like London, the club culture that once gave birth to subversive subcultures might be dead, but the collective are set on injecting the city’s fashion scene with a punk spirit. There was no better place for it, than a seedy, red strip light-lit sex club. “I feel like there is a new energy in here. We want to push it – not necessarily to bring anything back, but to give it a new life. Things are still quite dusty, old and conservative.”