Initial reaction:

Aggressive, romantic, sensual and dangerous, all of these tensions manifested themselves in Riccardo Tisci’s army of  “Victorian-chola girls” this season. Tisci is a master of twisting and subverting romantic codes of fashion into something darker, but AW15 felt more intense than ever.

The look:

Amongst a junkyard set of scattered arcade games, pin ball machines, and motorcycle helmets, Tisci’s girls stomped out in velvet, brocades and lace, accessorised with multiple septum rings and bejewelled faux piercings created by make-up master Pat McGrath. Baby hair was combed and gelled, a signifier of attitude and female strength, and although the collection featured sheer, cut out silhouettes, these were women who know exactly what they wanted to show and what they wanted to hide.

International women’s day:

Call it fate or simply coincidence, but for Riccardo Tisci to show his AW15 collection on International Women’s Day felt like the stars aligning. Whether casting his friend and muse, the transgender model Lea T in his AW10 campaign, or putting a make-up free Julia Roberts in his SS15 ads, Tisci has always been one to celebrate powerful women. Fashion could do with more or that.