Alexander McQueen AW14

Initial reaction:

A dark Pagan cult stalk a forgotten earth wasteland. Gothic warrior ravens in black feather coats entrap and seduce the innocent in virginal white dresses.

Atmosphere:

A dirt mound catwalk of upturned trees and moss. Smoke curled from the ground, as if the earth was smoking. It felt apocalyptic, like we were witnessing the aftermath of war. A Bjork soundtrack set an eerie tone, from the threatening march of “Earth Intruders” to “Bachelorette” for the finale.

How they wore it:

Like a Nordic warrior – from the past or far in the future, we couldn’t tell. Cornrows circled the models’ heads like a beehive, with two plaits left long at the front. Faces were deathly pale with a white sheen as if frosted, and lips a cold metallic. Some wore amazing black feather eyebrows, somewhat reminiscent of the raven looks from Alexander McQueen menswear AW14. Intricate silver articulated handcuffs crawled across the hand like a glove.

The virginal and the damned:

Soft, virgin-white pieces worn against untouched, alabaster skin: broderie anglaise dresses with billowing peasant sleeves and starched white pilgrim collars tied with black bows. The damned temptresses wore gothic black: sheer dresses dotted with black feathers that grew into a full feather skirt, seductive low-cut gowns of inky ruffles, and shadowy black fur hoods.

Superstition:

Final sheer white gowns were embroidered with stars and moons suggestive of the occult pentagram. These McQueen brides glided along the moss-covered ground, their pristine feathered hems trailing in their wake.

Models: Harleth Kuusik (@harlethkuusik), Anna Ewers (@AnNaEwers), Katlin Aas (@AasKatlin), Polina Kasina, Iana Godina, Julia Nobis, Hedvig Palm (@hedvigpa), Nastya Sten (@nastyasten), Eleonora Baumann, Larissa Marchiori (@larissamarchiori), Olivia David (@OliviaRDavid), Annemijn Dijs (@annemijndijs), Sophie Touchet, Marylou Moll (@marylou_ml), Alisa Ahmann (@alisaahmann), Phillipa Hemphrey (@PHemphrey), Josephine Van Delden (@josephinevandelden).