This season’s obsession with the perverse pervades. Onto a harsh strip light runway, soundtracked by the Martinez brother’s live beats, Riccardo Tisci offered us alien seductresses draped in chiffon and fur. A timeless elegance underpinned the collection, almost masking the fission of predatory sexual tension. Almost.
Beneath the innocent frills and wispy chiffon lay a smouldering seductress. Leopard print threatened to engulf the butterfly motifs on Karen Elson, while dark leather crept onto cuffs, and dresses burst into a print of bright orange flame. Were they naked under those blush pink femme fatale furs? All that sheer chiffon certainly left little to the imagination. This woman was a predator in disguise, entrancing us with the piercing eyes of her Peacock butterfly print dress. The bleached out eyebrows, intriguing red tabs on the temples and a metallic sheen on the face tipped our woman into the paranormal.
From the man himself:
“I wanted to celebrate a classicism and a chicness, elegance and femininity, and a grown up woman. And at the same time, a perversion. Like Carlo Mollino, I’m collecting a lot of his polaroids. They’re one of the biggest things that I love. I want to make more women happy, not only the young generation, but the grown up woman as well” – Riccardo Tisci
The white leather panels of menswear reappeared on the pockets of Tisci’s impeccably sharp tailoring, before shifting to cross over the chest, and trap jackets closed in a threatening block of red – mimicking the red facial tabs. The ethereal butterfly prints came alive in intricate 3D collar necklaces, made from a cluster of butterflies. Incredible beaded embellishment in a mesmerising rainbow of colours grew like coral over Mariecarla’s bodice in the closing look. Oh, and Kendall Jenner preceded her in an almost alien python bodice and sheer black striped skirt.
Search Givenchy on Twitter right now and you’re likely to see just as many blurred snaps of Kanye, Rhi Rhi and Kendall Jenner as you are pictures of the clothes. We certainly weren’t short of things to talk about in the 40 minute pre-show delay. Rihanna arrived in Givenchy menswear AW14, including Mariecarla’s bandeau and a net face mask, plus white and gold Nike X Riccardo Tisci Air Force 1s – making her the first to wear them.
Models: Liu Wen (@LiuWenLW), Edie Campbell (@ebcampbell), Charlene Högger, Saskia de Brauw (@SBrauw), Anne-Sophie Monrad (@annimonrad), Stella Tennant, Elodia Prieto (@Elodiaprieto), Alessandra Ambrosio (@alessandraambrosio), Joan Smalls (@Joansmalls), Kendall Jenner (@kendalljenner), Kasia Struss (@kasiastruss), Jamie Bochert (@jamiebochert), Kate Grigoreva, Veroniek Gielkens (@VeroniekG), Katlin Aas (@AasKatlin), Dalianah Arekion (@23DAF), Iris Strubegger, Mina Cvetkovic (how_about_mina), Ashleigh Good @ashinstagood, Sasha Luss @RealSashaLuss
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