Alexander McQueen SS14

Initial reaction:

Double the darkness - the looks appeared to arrive in matching pairs, with subtle changes to harness placement or colour palette.

References:

Leather harnesses across the chest featured in nearly all looks, creating a sense of tension, constriction and darkness that McQueen is known and loved for.

Stand out looks:

Tiered white laser cut Victorian-esque dresses, worn with harnesses.

Model behaviour:

Julia Nobis in a white-feathered striped column dress, midriff on show.

How it was worn:

With metallic helmets, bleached eyebrows and sprayed black hair.

Unexpected details:

Leather harnesses, Cleopatra corsets and capes belted tight at the collar.

Silhouette:

Kilted skirts with buckle detailing were a nod to Alexander McQueen’s Scottish roots, and worn over leggings and trousers.

Accessories:

Brass bangles in varying widths piled on wrists and all up the arm added to the constriction theme. Aggressive multi-strapped heels with wide buckles at the ankle like shackles

Prints:

Lots of geometric prints worked into suede jackets and sculptural tiered dresses, including in mesmerising monochrome.

Location: Held inside a stable in Paris, models walked on a geometric sand-covered runway reminiscent of a Mondrian’s early works.