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Fashion East A/W11: Simone Rocha

Designer John Rocha's daughter presented fur-details, checks and sheer panelling in peach and nude for a modern yet feminine appeal as her first season at Fashion East

The second collection from the daughter of designer John Rocha, this is the first season that Simone has been on schedule as part of London Fashion Week's Fashion East. The collection was a strong and refined one that took in a thoroughly thought out set of influences, all led by her interest in artist Louise Bourgeois. Fur detailed tailored jackets sat next to thigh high dresses featuring cut away detailing. Offsetting the formal colours and shapes which came through from her tailoring, sleeves were taken off and replaced with sheer fabrics in nude colours adding a very contemporary feel. Sheer thigh length shorts also added a lightness to the show, where full sheepskin dresses pulled in a luxurious and enveloping touch. Another highlight of the presentation were the shoes. Brogue shapes created into high arched heels in clear resin, giving them a ghostlike, floating, appeal.

Dazed Digital: What was the starting point for you?
Simone Rocha:
It was inspired by the artist Louise Bourgeois who I am a huge fan of. I think she is wonderful. She passed away earlier this year, it made me want to do an ode to her.

DD: How did that come through in the clothes?
Simone Rocha:
It was really about her metal fabric sculptures and that's also where the gingham came from. She was known for stretched bodies made in textiles. It was her herself that influenced the tailoring, as she used to wear a lot of quite formal clothing. That came through and influenced me to do the deconstructed pieces, which I actually try to develop every season.

DD: Where did the furry back sections to the dresses come from?
Simone Rocha:
I thought that as it was Autumn Winter it was an opportunity to flesh out the collection with new fabrics. It was quite interesting for me to try and work that in alongside the tailoring. I was originally looking again at Louise Bourgeois canvases, and really amplify what it was she was doing by adding objects on. It was also an opportunity to manipulate the silhouette of the body.

DD: How did it feel to actually present in this way, as it is your first collection shown on schedule?
Simone Rocha:
I am absolutely delighted. I feel so lucky that I get to do it and, although I am absolutely knackered right now, it has been a fantastic and really inspiring experience.

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