Taking 19th century Gothic Romance as a starting point, the East London-based jewellery designer makes quirky designs featuring skulls and floral motifs
Noemi Klein started making quirky, individual pieces of jewellery in her East-London studio in 2004 and is fast becoming known for her gothic/girly pieces. One of the rings from her latest collection was worn by Andrea Riseborough on this month's cover of Dazed. Klein started working with metal when her dentist father gave her a cast-off drill. After discovering a passion for metal and silver work she went to Central Saint Martin's to hone her skills. Motifs in her work include skulls, flowers and medieval emblems but she says the Enchanted Forest is what really inspires her.
Dazed Digital: How would you describe the Noemi Klein aesthetic?
Noemi Klein: I would say the aesthetic has its background in the 19th century, the gothic/romantic connotations of that period have always appealed to me, maybe that's because I started listening to music in the late 80s. you get the idea: Caspar David Friedrich, Edgar Allan Poe, the Cure. But I also have a strong affinity to the 60s, avantgarde culture So, not wanting to descend into stereotypical goth kitsch (and sometimes I struggle!) I take these influences and put them together, mix modern textures, natural elements with a slightly morbid imagery.
DD: Is it true you started designing jewellery using a piece of your father's dentist equipment?
Noemi Klein: My father gave me an amazing old drill when he was updating his equipment and being mostly self-taught this machine enabled me to polish metal to a high standard from my desk at home, that's how I started making my first pieces. I still use the drill every day, now mostly for wood carving.
DD: You have said you draw inspiration from the ephemeral images of life and death, what do you think it is that appeals to you about them?
Noemi Klein: It would be cool to give you a really philosophical answer here with a few references to existentialism and what it means to be a human being but it's probably just because I love life but have a slightly melancholy character so I see beauty in the things that represent both.
DD: What are the motifs for this collection?
Noemi Klein: The motifs that reoccur intermittently in all my work are skulls and flowers, wood, the universe, dead birds, tree branches, spines and bones, teeth, etc.
DD: What are you most excited about next?
Noemi Klein: I'm excited about going to Japan! I'm nervous-excited about showing new work at the circle showroom at fashion week and I'm also about making some recent ideas into new jewellery soon.