Silas Adler brought out his finest military-inspired looks combined with sportswear elements for Copenhagen Fashion Week
For its A/W11 collection, Silas Adler's Soulland managed to combine an army of men wearing sportswear elements, such as boxing gear, with monotone colours ranging from marine blue to burnt orange. The previous S/S11 collection with a tint of tailored suits was less evident in this one with statement pieces such as a bumper jackets combined with poncho collars, whilst cable knit made the collection more comfortable. There was a clever detail of strappy military accessories, which made simpler outfits stand alone until the show closed with a rather extravagant fur coat and slightly green touch.
Dazed Digital: What is your inspiration for this collection?
Silas Adler: This season I worked with the American civil war as the inspiration for the collection. I studied the uniforms of the soldiers who fought the civil war and I found myself particularly inspired by this portrait series of soldiers I found. They had a wonderful sense of honor in their eyes. My favorite soldiers were the hobo soldiers. In the portraits of them they are wearing lots of layers, which I'm sure they did to keep warm, but it has a nice effect. I was also intrigued by the details of the soldiers’ pockets and collars, and without making uniforms I tried to integrate the details into my design aesthetic.
DD: You made a groundbreaking fedora, ventured into suits, while also creating a decent footwear collection. What's next?
Silas Adler: I'm too humble to call the fedora groundbreaking, but I am quite proud of it and I'm always glad when I spot someone on the street wearing it. I'm really not sure what's in store for us next. We're working on a project with a big Danish national company that is sort of a big deal, but it's still a secret. As far as the Soulland collection goes we are still working on mixing more formal wear into our DNA. Shoes are taking up more and more of our focus and our hats have also become classics in our collections. We have introduced a few more versions of the hat and we'll also be showing a new variation of it at our Copenhagen show. We're just making them for the show, but if there's a demand for them we might out them in production.
DD: You had a dream which turned into reality, how did you start so young?
Silas Adler: I was very naive and fearless. I guess I found out early that hard work is the only way to make it happen. One of the best things about it is that it's not only me working on making a success out of Soulland, we are a whole team and everyone is focused on making it happen. I don't know if my dream has come true yet, but I'm on the right path.
DD: America seems to be present in your work, do you want your brand to be based in Copenhagen or what does the future hold?
Silas Adler: America is on my mind now and has been for a while. I guess it started with the collaboration we did with Jacob Holdt and American Pictures, which focuses on one of the downsides of American society. We also just opened a store in Copenhagen called US Import, so we've been playing around with American references for a while now. There are so many aspects of the American society that are fascinating and at the same time heartbreaking. Soulland isn't meant to be political and I'm not trying to take a stand with the 'Civilized' collection. As far as the base of Soulland goes, Copenhagen works for now. I have obligations here and everyone from our team lives here, but I love exploring the word so I only hope that I'll get the opportunity at some point.