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Calla Womenswear S/S11

The Toronto-born designer presents her print stories of the season

Calla Haynes has been quietly paving her way in Paris for the last few seasons with her own collections though she is a print collaborator by trade, who has lent her skills to the likes of Rochas and Nina Ricci. Prints are her game but they are always full of subtle abstractions that means, nothing is ever too literal or cartoonish. Her shaping is also made to be relaxed and luxurious without ever being too forceful. This season, female artists such as French sculptor and painter Niki de Sainte Phalle and the Mexican actress Maria Felix inspired her work which was demonstrated with a reel of YouTube clips that was projected at the presentation. This played out into three main print themes that formed the collection: the 'Graphic' theme comes from Saint Phalle's sculptures in her garden in Tuscany which looks like a warped mosaic print, the 'Relaxed' print sees beachy textures subtly printed on double layered chiffon and the 'Soft' print fades and bleaches out florals to the point of disappearing. After Haynes' recent ANDAM nomination, she has picked up pace and deservedly, has added fresh blood to the Paris Fashion Week schedule.

Dazed Digital: How did ANDAM change your direction?

Calla Haynes: It really pushed me to take it a step further and do this presentation. It was a great opportunity to be nominated.

DD: Where did all the prints actually come from?

Calla Haynes: The first family was really graphic based on mosaic work - I thought it was like a graphic version of a crocodile. Then we had something quite soft that was textured and based on beaches. This one came out like graffiti and I was inspired by Niki di Sainte Phalle who did these shooting paintings where paint exploded. This is a double mousseline so that you'd have a moire effect which I found interesting to mix with the print. It's the print of the last family but faded and soft.

DD: What shapes did you develop this season?

Calla Haynes: There's the classic bustier that I like to keep exploring. I developed a lot of 'relaxed luxury' pieces - lots of easy shapes like t-shirts done in silk satin with special details or trousers with big pockets. There's an aloof feeling but also very refined.

DD: How does it feel to be a young designer and to present in Paris on such a tight schedule:?

Calla Haynes: I knew it was hard going into this and living in Paris for so long but it feels as though something is happening where more younger designers are doing things in Paris and I'm happy to be here.