Shown at New york's Soho House, Mulberry's presentation for SS11 was theatrical through and through. Entering the hotels grand entrance and through a door decked out to look something like an Alice Through the Looking Glass creation, the archetypal English luxury brand's show opened to soundbites taken from the cult documentary Grey Gardens, which follows a reclusive New York socialite mother and daughter.Taking the films aesthetic very much as inspiration, Mulberry's girl's, all present with matching auburn hair and the occasional real live pug, wore natural tones, gradually building throughout the show to royal blue, deep plum and tropical animal print. High waisted, belted, pleated trouser suits in silk, denim, chambray and wool were accompanied by loose blouses, twin sets, floral embellishment and almost Jackie O inspired evening dresses. Known of course for their accessories and bags, the classic Alexa and Birkin were updated with quilted, and fully printed, versions in various sizes. Dazed spoke to Eva Sneve, Mulberry’s accessories designer.
Dazed Digital: Can you tell me about the inspiration behind the accessories this season? Eva Sneve: The whole season started off by being inspired by Grey Gardens, and also A Secret Garden, both the movie and the novel. Taking it from there, we built up a colour palette. With accessories the colour choice is really where you make your statement.
DD: What colours were important for you this season? Eva Sneve: A lot of beautiful new nudes, such as powder beige and soft browns. This was a change for us as we usually do oak and chocolates, so it was great to do paler options. We also have some strong splashes of colour like the electric blue and the English plum. These sit really well with the neutrals.
DD: Talking specifically about Grey Gardens, what did you pull from the film? Eva Sneve: From Grey Gardens we pulled out the mix of materials, going for print and quilting for instance. We really wanted to mix textures and colours, for instance, we did the tiger print with a highlight in an electric leopard, and also used trims in a faux snakeskin. We really wanted to compose various exotic materials.
DD: What else were you interested in this season? Eva Sneve: We were interested in playing around with sizes and shape. We did the a large Piccadilly, and then miniature Bayswater's and played with the proportions of the belts in the ready to wear. We also added some of the belts in a new range of varied colours, and a lot of the ready to wear actually come with the belts as part of the garment.