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Lanvin Menswear S/S11

Ossendrijver & Elbaz's signature casual tailoring was replaced by bodycon knitwear...

Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz brought out the heavy artillery on Sunday morning when showing Lanvin’s Spring Summer collection. Focusing partly on coats with over sized and reconstructed lapels and collars, the brand’s signature casual tailoring took a back seat in favour of body tight knitwear and chunky neck jewellery. Stripes on tops and bottoms went both on the horizontally and vertically. The coats were often sleeveless and used to boast several layers of luxurious fabrics. Though predominately black, the collection had a few colour highlights, most notably a shirt in aqua blue, a green jacket and yellow trousers. The fabrics stood out as skilfully structured suits towered towards the end, one showing off frayed seams. A leather patchwork coat and a camouflage-esque pattern finished off another stellar Lanvin collection.

Dazed Digital: What was the main idea behind the collection?
Lucas Ossendrijver: It was a hybrid behind active wear – but not in an 80s kind of way – and more formal tailoring. There was lots of details and enormous research around the cuts, seams and darts that twist around the body. We also looked at layering and textures.

DD: There were many coats…
Lucas Ossendrijver: Yeah, but very light ones, and they had plenty of zips and detachable bits.

DD: Favourite item in the collection?
Lucas Ossendrijver: Difficult to say, it’s too fresh.

DD: What’s your take on the collection?
Alber Elbaz: In fashion school we learnt that the most important things are fabric, colour and cuts – that’s what this collection was all about. Then we added details, details and details. It’s all about layering and texture – when you have the texture in front of you, you want to touch it and that’s when it becomes emotional.

DD: What was the story behind the jewellery?
Alber Elbaz: We asked ourselves if it was right to use it or if the guys would look like vulgar and feminine. But in a season when everyone else seemed to be showing skirts it’s OK to have jewellery! Women wear pants today so men can wear jewellery. It’s not only about liberation for women, but also for men!