"I love beautifully structured tailoring on a woman," Tim Hamilton says of his AW 2010 collection. "I respond to the idea of the uniform. It's protective and empowering."

Hamilton's tailoring, first explored in his menswear and then applied to his women's line, emphasizes construction and form. "It's a reflection of the times," the designer admits, "but also an encouragement to make strong, smart decisions. To be prepared for anything, and to be dressed for it."

Using a long, straight silhouette, Hamilton's variations on his themes referred to the work of Étienne-Jules Marey, the 19th century French scientist and photographer who shot multiple captures of objects in motionplaying with forward movement. Both an architectural and sensual collection, he utilises the interplay of masculine and feminine elements throughout his designs so that jackets flirt with sheer, organza sleeves and suiting-style fabrics are embossed for shine. Contrast is at the collection's heart: light versus hard, sheer versus thick, technical versus artisanal.