In 2026, Zurich-based fashion brand Prototypes is celebrating its fifth anniversary and tenth collection. To mark the occasion, for their AW26 show, designers Laura Beham and Callum Pidgeon took a trip down memory lane, revisiting their archives and drawing inspiration from past collections that shaped their brand identity. 

This season’s offering came via lookbook, photographed by Jesse Glazzard and featuring anonymous models, mostly all shrouded by hair or oversized sunglasses. Every look becomes its own character – there’s the blurred figure in a black gimp suit, lingering in the toilets; the older gentleman in a tailored pinstripe suit, and the partygirl in gold kitten heels, wearing a dress made from miniature Eiffel towers. 

As well as trawling through their own archives, the main influence for the collection came from queer British magazines of the 70s and 80s – introduced to the designers by stylist Léopold Duchemin. “The images are raw and beautiful,” they explain, “from the texture of the images, the poses, the decor, liberation, fear, we connected emotionally with them.” 

The duo, who are a couple in both life and work, met while sharing a desk working under Demna at Vetements, before founding their own label, Prototypes in 2021. Below, we catch up with the designers about their latest collection, hopes for the future and a recent run-in with EsDeeKid. 

Hey Laura and Callum! What was the starting point for your AW26 collection? 

Prototypes: Being our tenth collection, we started by revisiting our archive, as it felt like an anniversary in some ways. It was surprising to realise how many styles we’ve produced over the past five years. We focused on updating and reimagining early concepts that helped build the brand in the beginning.

Do you design with one person in mind, or many? 

Prototypes: Many! We design our collections with the idea of building a wardrobe, a walk-in-wardrobe if you like – there needs to be a favourite piece for everyone who walks in.

Who is the original prototype?

Prototypes: I wouldn’t say it’s a person; a prototype is a perfect freeze of exploration. A first draft of an idea that is unpolished, never finished, and constantly evolving. 

How did you meet Jess,e and what made him the right photographer to shoot this lookbook?

Prototypes: We were first introduced to Jesse’s work through Léopold [Duchemin], and we fell in love with his ability to document a character or an emotion. There’s a rawness to his style that fits this campaign. After the shoot day, there was more to do: we edited, printed, scanned and repeated the images until we got the texture we wanted. 

Why did you want anonymity to be part of this collection? 

Prototypes: Anonymity can be a way to divert attention from someone’s face and highlight the story. It’s like creating a mannequin, you pay more attention to the character's silhouette, pose and movement. Being faceless can portray a different energy.

Who’s someone anonymous that you’d like to know the identity of? 

Prototypes: We recently had a showroom visit from EsDeeKid. His career has lifted off really quickly – we didn’t get a glimpse of his face, though.

What were you listening to when you were designing this collection? 

Prototypes: Looking back at the playlist, this collection's music was particularly alternative and moody: Portishead, Sinead O’Connor, Chris Isaak, that vibe. Usually, in past collections, it’s more upbeat. I don’t know why we switched it up this season, either it fitted the mood, or we’re just getting older.

What’s something that you haven’t achieved yet that you’d like to? 

Prototypes: Buying some land one day would be nice.

What’s next for you?

Prototypes: Laura’s pregnant and due in May, so we’re having a baby this year, which will change our work life. We’re excited for the future and already working on the next collection.