Whilst typically, Milanese designers are always geared to feature the molto sexy, this season Gabriele Colangelo turned out just mere teasing hints towards the feminine form, even the veterans, D&G and Prada, have turned the temperature down a notch and gone back to their respective basics. The collection showed restraint on hem length with the vast majority of dresses hitting mid-thigh (not too short!) and also on embellishments. Detail extended to ruffles that fell like a waterfall down one side and ravine-shaped ripples that descended across torsos, a more understated use of texturing. Silky dresses the colour of fjords and glaciers were belted or teamed with boxy-shoulder jackets.
The basis of this collection was the interest in rocks and erosion, which have developed in to pieces that serve to remind me of childhood holidays spent in the great outdoors of a snow-beaten Norway; an elegant palette of cool hued granite, icy whites and fresh blues were punctuated by hill-side heather and lavender. The astrakhans and minks heightened the icy tones and wintry feel and was no less than expected from a designer who was born in to the family furrier business. A young label of a mere three years old, Colangelo has turned over a hat trick.