At the beginning of this year, American designer Conner Ives held his AW25 fashion show during February’s London Fashion Week. In many ways, it followed his previous shows: it was held inside Claridges, featuring silk A-line dresses, with models who stopped to pose in each corner of the room. Yet there was one moment during the show that would change everything, reshaping not only Ives’ own life but the lives of many others, too.

When Conner Ives stepped out for his final bow, he wore a white t-shirt printed with the words “Protect the Dolls” in black serif lettering. The gesture – applauded as a statement at a time when trans rights face global attack – quickly evolved into action. Ives reproduced the shirt to raise money for Trans Lifeline, a US-based charity providing life-saving services to the trans community, and in just six months has raised over $600,000. At his SS26 show yesterday (September 22) at Saatchi Yates, Ives paid tribute once again: “This one, and every one, is for my Dolls!” read the show notes.

With a collection titled On Pop, the designer referenced the everlasting greatness of pop music as Robyn’s “Dancing On My Own” blasted through the speakers. As the front row mouthed every word, models stomped to the beat: a cast of modern-day It girls, led predominantly by trans women. 

US rapper Cortisa Star opened the show wearing a peach shirt with a swan embroidered onto the pocket (referencing Ives’ AW24 collection, The Swans, an ode to Truman Capote). Following Star came the likes of Munya, Enza Khoury, Emma Ellingsen and Hunter Pifer, to name a few. “I’ve been so nurtured and supported by such beautiful and incredible women,” Ives told Dazed back in February. “I wouldn’t be here right now if it wasn’t for the dolls.”

The collection was as dreamy and delicate as ever, with floating chiffon dresses, feathered adornments, 70s silhouettes, giant lilies, blush pink and tassels galore. “I have never been more proud of my team,” said Ives. “In times like these, where every day feels more perilous than the last, I am moved by the humanity of this movement and what it has made possible. This is only the beginning. Protect the dolls forever.”