Ahead of next week’s Met Gala, we slid into the DMs of some of fashion’s top Black creatives to ask them one simple question: what does Black dandyism mean to you? As you probably know by now, the subject of the Met’s next fashion exhibition – and therefore the theme of next week’s gala – is Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, and the Black dandy plays a central role. Also playing a pivotal role in constructing Black identity in fashion are the many names we’ve posed the question to, so who better to chat about this year’s theme? From IB Kamara’s powerful mantra to Rian Phin’s analytical framework, this is what Black dandyism means to them.

RIAN PHIN, FASHION THEORIST

“I think Black dandyism is a clever sartorial performance that involves reinventing fashion codes and offering them new meaning. It’s a self-aware reclamation of aesthetics which intended to limit and exclude, sometimes with a hint of irony and jest. The sometimes playful and powerful framework informing dandyism is the same dynamic for a lot of black fashion styles. It’s an essential foundation of understanding black style.”

IMRUH ASHA, DAZED FASHION DIRECTOR

“I would say Black dandyism is grace, elegance, pride and attention to detail.”

PRIYA AHLUWALIA, DESIGNER

“Black dandyism speaks to duality: design and flair, tradition and reinvention. That resonates with my own story, growing up at the intersection of Nigerian, Indian and British cultures.

Black dandyism is both joyous and rebellious, a way of showing up in the world with intentional beauty and layers of identity and history. That spirit is central to my work at Ahluwalia, where every piece is inspired by the diaspora. It’s about creating pieces that reflect who we are, and who we’re becoming.”

IB KAMARA, DAZED EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

“Black dandyism is the belief in your own unique style. It is having the confidence to know that you don’t need to try and be anyone else, that your voice and perspective are worthy and special.”

FEBEN, DESIGNER

“Black dandyism is a way of navigating the world with a point of view. It’s about freedom of expression – your style becomes your language.”

KENNETH IZE, DESIGNER

“Black dandyism is very special, I would say it’s the epitome of black excellence, packed with opulence due to how diverse black culture can be. [Particularly] the sophistication of tailoring.”

SAMUEL ROSS, ARTIST AND DESIGNER 

“Power – a choice to render the highest perception of self – in times of peace and war”

EDVIN THOMPSON, THEOPHILIO DESIGNER

“As a designer, Black dandyism allows me to explore the contradictions of masculinity and softness, structure and sensuality, tradition and rebellion. It’s about dressing for the ancestors, but also for the future. It’s sartorial storytelling. It’s freedom.

In the world of Theophilio, Black dandyism is more than fashion, it’s a political and poetic statement. It’s me honouring my roots, while redefining the way Black elegance is seen and celebrated on a global stage.”

KIM RUSSELL, FASHION COMMENTATOR

“Black dandyism is your intrinsic perception of yourself, projected outwardly. In your heart, you deeply identify with what you put forward.”

FRANCESCA LAKE, DESIGNER

“Dandyism is a construct rooted in challenging societal norms, that spans beyond the language of dress... Dandyism represents pride, bravado and rebellion; sentiments directly related to the ethos of our brand. The theme of ‘Bravado’ is such an integral part of Jamaican sub and popular culture, forming the foundation on which I explore both my lived experience and academia.

“Though the tangible elements of dandyism may differ from country to country through clothing, hairstyle and jewellery, the intangible and perhaps most important, our attitude, is synonymous across all Black culture and unifies us as a people. For me, Dandyism is about that attitude. It is unapologetic, it is braggadocious and it is cultural capital established as a means to create opportunities for marginalised voices to be heard and seen. It has helped to define our culture.”

ALEX DOBÉ, PHOTOGRAPHER

“For me, Black dandyism is changing the (often) biased perception of what a Black person looks like and reclaiming dignity and power through clothing. Without necessarily being as extravagant as the amazing Sapology movement, Black dandyism is being unapologetically Black, elegant and tasteful.”

FODAY DUMBUYA, LABRUM DESIGNER

“For me, Black dandyism is about crafting a distinct aesthetic that honours my heritage while allowing space for personal expression. It is an affirmation of identity, a statement that commands respect and attention. Each piece I create is imbued with stories from my cultural background, reflecting the intricate narratives that have shaped my existence and artistic vision. 

“Through my practice, I see tailoring as a medium not just for fashion, but for storytelling. Each seam, fabric, and silhouette carries the weight of history, pride, and individuality. Black dandyism encourages me to break barriers, challenge stereotypes, and redefine masculinity – not just through sharp cuts and impeccable tailoring, but through the stories embedded in the garments, giving voice to experiences that often go unheard.”