Of 8,703 looks presented during the AW25 season, only 0.3 per cent of models were plus size. According to Vogue Business’s bi-annual report, across the 198 shows and presentations, 97.7 per cent of models were a UK size four to eight and two per cent were UK size 10-16. Models size 18+ made up less than 1 per cent, dropping by 0.5 per cent since last season. 

Of the Paris shows, XULY.Bët was the most inclusive catwalk, with 17.6 per cent of models being mid-size (UK 10-16). That said, even the most inclusive show in the French capital featured zero plus-size looks. Ottolinger followed in second and Cecilie Bahnsen in third. Matières Fécales included the most plus-size looks with 2.7 per cent, but didn’t include any mid-size looks. At Sarah Burton’s Givenchy debut, mid-size looks made up 3.8 per cent of the catwalk, marking a new era for the French heritage house. 

In Milan, the most inclusive shows were Marco Rambaldi, Marni and Fendi, though none featured any plus-size models, including only mid-size. In fact, not a single plus-size model featured in any show across Milan Fashion Week. Jane Wade and Collina Strada came in first and second place at New York Fashion Week, though the Big Apple still dipped from six to four per cent since last season. 

In London – which is consistently the most size inclusive of the big four – mid and plus-size representation decreased massively, disappointingly falling from 13 to 7 per cent. The dip may be partially due to the absence of Brazilian London-based designer Karoline Vitto, who opted for a showroom over a catwalk or presentation this season. Sinéad O’Dwyer continued to advocate for inclusivity with her show, where mid and plus-size models were the majority – only 12.5 per cent of looks were straight size (UK four to eight). 

The report comes during a time when GLP-1 drugs are more accessible than ever and 13 per cent of US adults have tried them at some point. Around six per cent of adults in America are currently using Ozempic or similar products. According to reports from earlier this year, by the end of 2024, sales of Ozempic had increased by 25 per cent to a huge $40.6 billion dollars. 

Whilst much of the world seems to be moving backwards politically, upsettingly, it seems fashion is heading in the same direction, returning to a time when size 0 was the ideal. Not to mention the shocking abundance of fur on the runways in Milan and Paris. At a time when we rely on the creative industries more than ever to push for progression – a handful of designers did choose to make statements through their work – this season felt particularly regressive.