Earlier this afternoon, as the sun beamed down on the brutalist backdrop of the National Theatre on South Bank, Burberry rallied celebs from around the world for the most highly anticipated show on the London Fashion Week schedule. With a custom set designed by YBA art legend Gary Hume, creative director Daniel Lee decided to leave the drama to the National Theatre setting, keeping the collection simple with the tagline: “Born of function, grounded in heritage” as teased on Instagram. Scroll down for everything that went down at the show.

A SUPERSTAR FROW

Burberry is always the biggest show on the London Fashion Week schedule, and though the label’s usual Sunday night closing slot was brought forward by a couple of hours, the front row was just as stacked. Current campaign star Lila Moss took a break from shooting in the Lake District to make it down to the National Theatre – as did Barry Keoghan, Jourdan Dunn, Skepta, Normani, Jack Harlow and TikTok’s favourite trad couple Nara and Lucky Blue Smith. And while some Great British titans arrived at the showspace – including Olivia Colman, Damon Albarn, Jerry Hall, Patsy Kensit and David Gandy – they were also joined by London’s new school, like Amelia Dimoldenberg, Gabriel Moses, Nia Archives and Slawn.

SOME MODEL MOMENTS

Last season, Lee shocked us by bringing back 00s legend Agyness Deyn to open the show, and though there wasn’t as big a moment this time, the cast was still top tier. Lily Donaldson trotted the runway in a turquoise evening gown and parka jacket, Edie Campbell arrived in a matching jacket and midi skirt, Alva Claire was wearing a figure-hugging zipped creation, while Chinese supermodel Liu Wen closed the show. Also joining them on the catwalk were Brit faces Jean Campbell, Nora Attal, Kai-Isaiah Jamal, George Osbourne (not that one), and Neelam Gill.

HERITAGE REMIXED

Sticking loyally to house codes such as the classic trench and check, Lee deviated slightly from tradition with cropped-in-the-front iterations of the jacket – like a Burberry take on the 2010s’ high-low trend. Lee continued to play with the cut of the cloth via low-rise capri pants, thigh-high slits and ultra-cropped biker jackets. Elegant flourishes were added by way of sophisticated, striped neckties, oversized pussy-bow blouses and floating batwing sleeves.

A JACKET AND A NICE DRESS

Since starting his tenure at Burberry, Lee has realised that women only want one thing: a big warm jacket to go over their nice evening dress. Last season, Phoebe Philo’s daughter Maya Wigrim closed the show in a variation of the look, and this time Donaldson was there in her sparkly dress and parka coat, while more models arrived moto jackets with long flowing skirts beneath. It’s an extremely evocative silhouette, reminiscent of grabbing a coat over your party dress on a brisk night out, and has become one of Lee’s go tos over the years.

COMPLETING THE LOOK

As always with Burberry, the accessories were a standout. A nova check belt held up a long orange skirt, bags came in buttery white leather or suede calfskin, while models also clutched at sequined clutch bags and cobalt blue tote bags.