NYFW’s biggest trend? FiveFinger shoes

Liana Satenstein, writer and host of Never Worns, wore her Vibram FiveFingers to almost every show this New York Fashion Week season. She first got into them after Balenciaga released their booted collaboration in 2020, but had been a fan of exposed-toe footwear long before that. “I’ve always been really into feet and how we show them through our shoes because I think it’s even more erotic than showing cleavage or wearing something sheer,” she says. “I think feet are the most erotic thing.” And if FiveFinger shoes are one of the most titillating styling choices you can make, then this year has been off the charts when it comes to toe horniness. Vibram recently teamed up with designers such as Kiko Kostadinov and Ottolinger, and has become a fan-favourite for “incredible Copenhagen girls” and “beautiful French girls” like Melissa Bon, says Satenstein.

Satenstein isn’t the only New York Fashion Week-goer who made Vibram FiveFingers their shoe of choice. While Willy Chavarria’s models may have stomped down the runway in shiny black loafers, heels with socks, and Adidas sneakers, backstage, there were multiple pairs of Vibram FiveFingers present in the dressing room (we counted at least 20 Vibram-wrapped toes). Then, writer Nicolaia Rips wore her pair to run across town to the afterparties. In fact, while waiting for an elevator (Vibram firmly on her feet), she was approached by a FiveFingers admirer. “This guy was also waiting for the elevator, and he’s like ‘I love your shoes. Can I take a photo of them?’” she says. After chatting for a few minutes, he pulled up his Instagram, and Rips realised it was Montassar Alaya, Azzedine Alaïa’s cousin.

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On the runway, the exposed toe theme continued this season. Sandy Liang models wore what Satenstein describes as “a freaky thong heel disguised as a mule”, and Collina Strada models walked in see-through mesh zip-up boots. Then, at the Women’s History Museum’s show, it was ramped up a notch with gold paw shoes with protruding claws. “We’re really inspired by animalic clothing and body interventions, specifically big cats,” says Amanda McGowan, co-founder of the brand. “We also love that the shoes are a weapon.” Mattie Barringer, fellow co-founder, says they’ve been exploring the theme of felinity through their clothing for a few years now. “The symbolic and archetypal association between cats and femininity is such a historic and rich space we enjoy returning to within our art,” says Barringer.

Whether you’re interested in the extensive interwoven history between cats and womanhood or simply find toe shoes erotic like Satenstein, there’s no denying that fashion has somewhat of a foot fetish right now. Fashion trend forecaster Anya (@fashunadict on TikTok) even called silver sequined Vibram FiveFingers "the representation of fashion in the next five years", in large part due to people becoming more drawn to clothes that are health-conscious or have “healing properties”. Satenstein also has her own theories on why people throw their five fingers up for FiveFingers. “There are two strains of this because we have the tabby, and it’s a natural progression that, after the hoof, you put another slit in it,” she says. “But, also, I think some of these girls must have some crunchy boyfriend who works in tech who is wearing them, and then they’re like ‘fuck it, why not?’” 

As it turns out, if you combine people who are trying to freak their feet for fashion with those looking to avoid bunion progression, you get the footwear trends of all footwear trends. And it doesn’t end there: fashion’s current love affair with splayed-toes has ushered in a mesh ballet flat trend and complete thong heel revival (and then just a Haviana’s revival). “The thinner the thong, the nastier you get; it’s like you’re wagging your sexuality,” says Satenstein. “It’s a gross dichotomy where the foot is clean, but the nasty thong is rubbing its granules into the nasty pavement.” And it’s true – wearing either thongs or FiveFingers in New York means your feet are only one thin layer away from touching the city’s notoriously dirty pavement. That, says Satenstein, is the appeal. “It's kind of sexy,” she says. “We’re all one step away from something disgusting.”