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Kate Moss and Linda Evangelista, 1994Photography Rose Hartman, Courtesy of Getty Images

The big fashion breakdown: what to look out for at the SS24 shows

From supermodels spilling secrets and Sabato De Sarno’s big Gucci debut, to a double Peter Do whammy, pretend you know what’s going on this season with Dazed’s handy one-stop guide

The fashion train is rolling into the station once more, as September ushers in the SS24 womenswear shows. Kicking off as per usual in New York City this Friday [September 8], before landing in London, Milan, and Paris, there’s loads to look forward to this season. From big debuts – looking at you, Peter Do and Sabato De Sarno – to supermodel secret-spilling and stellar fashion retrospectives, here are the standout moments you should have your eye on across the next couple of weeks.

PETER DO MAKES HIS BIG HELMUT LANG DEBUT

Peter Do has been a name to know for a while now, rising up the ranks of NY’s fashion scene to become one of the most anticipated designers on the city’s schedule, and now, he’s adding another string to his bow. Picking up the mantle at OG minimalist label Helmut Lang, Do will debut his first collection for the house on the opening day of NYFW – expect clean lines, cool denim, and unexpected details. We’re calling it: one of the most covetable collections of the season, without a doubt.

…AND THEN HIS BIG PARIS DEBUT

As if Do wasn’t busy enough back in his hometown of NY, he’s also landing in Paris for the first time to showcase his namesake label among heavy hitters like Rick Owens, Maison Margiela, and Louis Vuitton. We can’t wait for a double-Do whammy.

MARNI LANDS IN THE CITY OF LOVE

Francisco Risso has been dragging his merry band of Marni family members across the globe for a while now, turning out memorable, imaginative shows in New York, Milan, Tokyo, and more. Now, he’s getting ready to take over the Paris runway with a presentation that’s likely to be as wild as the last few. Strap in! 

MARGIELA IS BACK ON THE READY-TO-WEAR CALENDAR

We repeat, Margiela is back on the ready-to-wear calendar. Will maestro John Galliano have left star-crossed lovers Count and Hen back in couture, or will they be making the move to this season? Stay tuned. 

TALIA BYRE TAKES A TENDER MOMENT

Talia Byre, at least in our humble opinion, is a big name to watch on the London scene, with the Northern designer taking over legendary fish restaurant Sweetings in the City and Jermaine Gallagher’s uber chic Lant Street Wine for her first two shows. Now, she’s leaving the foodie faves behind and stepping into the literary world, with her hat-trick presentation landing at North London coffee table tome enclave Tenderbooks during LFW. 

THE SUPERMODEL DOC FINALLY DROPS

Get ready for the dirt to be dished, as Linda, Naomi, Christy, and Cindy gang together to lay bare their experience of working in fashion as the industry’s hottest models across the 1990s. There’s not much to go on so far, but it’s likely to be a salacious and eye-opening watch – a rare opportunity to get the goss straight from the horses mouths. 

LINDA EVANGELISTA IS DISHING THE DIRT

As well as starring in Apple’s upcoming doc alongside her supermodel sisters, Evangelista will be getting out of bed – £10k or not – to join a conversation with photographer Steven Meisel to celebrate their new book. The tome is a culmination of a long-standing personal and professional relationship, with the two going deep on their friendship at London’s Cadogan Hall during LFW. 

ICONIC SCAMMER ANNA DELVEY IS HOSTING A RUNWAY SHOW

Anna Delvey is shimmying into her Rick Owens leathers once more, as she joins forces with People’s Revolution PR legend Kelly Cutrone to present Parson’s grad YANG’s first ever show. With Delvey still on house arrest, the hush-hush presentation will take place within the walls of her apartment, with only a handful of press invited to take it all in. Obviously, Dazed is among them, so keep your eyes on the site and our socials to get the goss first. 

THE BFC CELEBRATES 30 YEARS OF NEWGEN

Somehow, the BFC’s NEWGEN scheme – which supports rising designers across the UK – is 30, so it’s time for a big blowout. This means a landmark new exhibition at the Design Museum, which brings together the most radical creatives and their clothes from across the last three decades – think Craig Green, Gareth Pugh, Christopher Kane, and loads, loads more. 

KAROLINE VITTO TAKES HER BIG GIRLS TO MILANO

Karoline Vitto is bowing out of Fashion East a season early, but with good reason: London’s loss is Milano’s gain, as the designer has been chosen as the latest recipient of Dolce & Gabbana’s support scheme for rising creatives. With Vitto committed to creating clothes for fashion fans who don’t fit into the sample size archetype, expect a much needed dose of body diversity to hit the Milanese catwalk. 

SABATO DE SARNO LANDS AT GUCCI

And now for the big one. After the shock departure of Alessandro Michele late last year, all eyes will be on Gucci this season, as new creative director Sabato De Sarno makes his big debut at the head of the house. Right now, there isn’t a great deal of info to go on, but if his sneak-peek jewellery campaign featuring Daria Werbowy was anything to go by, you can probably expect a departure from the mad maximalism of his predecessor towards a more uber-luxe Tom Ford-era aesthetic. Watch this space.