Shein’s secretive AI algorithm will steal your artwork

...and more fashion news you missed this week

14July 2023

Shein sees the most disturbed corners of the capitalist psyche and thinks ‘Yas, love that!’. Having already made headlines this month for inviting so-called confidence activists to pretend factories in China, the fast fashion behemoth is now being accused of running a Mafia-style operation to avoid being penalised for plagiarising artwork. According to The Fashion Law, a lawsuit was filed this week that claimed the firm had been using a “secretive algorithm” to clone trending art within its clothing. Three independent creatives – Krista Perry, Larissa Martinez, and Jay Baron – have said that Shein has reproduced exact copies of their works and they’re currently seeking past and future damages to “prevent further racketeering activity”. There has been an accretion of similar allegations over recent years, but Shein’s confusing corporate structure has meant that it’s managed to evade being seen as liable. Ugh, werk!

In other fashion news this week, Hari Nef attended the Barbie premiere in custom Dilara Findikoglu – offering a brief salvation from all the Pepto Bismol costumes that have been surfacing – while a Sheffield-based jeweller unveiled an engagement ring in the form of a Crocs charm. For everything else you may have missed, click through the gallery below.

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Photography Brigitte Niedermair

DIOR’S RESURRECTS ÉDITH PIAF

This week, Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled Dior’s latest advertising campaign, complete with James Turrel-style fluorescent orbs. Photographed by longtime collaborator Brigitte Niedermair, the models evoke Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf, and Juliette Gréco – all of whom Chiuri attempted to conjure on the brand’s AW23 catwalk. Click here to see more of the advertising images here.

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LOUIS VUITTON GETS INTO GASTRONOMY AGAIN

Louis Vuitton is sticking its fingers into the spiritual heartland of rich, European summers. Opening this week, the brand is taking over the White 1921 Hotel in Saint Tropez with a pop-up restaurant helmed by the Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Donckele and pastry connoisseur Maxime Frédéric. If you happen to be in the south of France, head down to the hotel – which is nestled between the Vieux Port and the Place des Lices – for LV-monogrammed brioche and Genoese gamberoni.

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VANS GIVES BIRTH TO A NEW SHOE

One of Vans’ hallmark ambassadors, pro skater Beatrice Domond released her own shoe with Vans Skateboarding: a suede, sage green mid-top Zahba inspired by autumn in New York. The sneaker launched here on July 13 and is available at selected retailers around the world. Dovetailing with the drop, Vans and Beatrice will also host the premiere of a new Shari White film at the reopening of the Blue Park skatepark in Brooklyn.

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MONCLER THINKS SALEHE BEMBURY IS A GENIUS

Moncler announced the release of its latest Genius Collection with American designer Salehe Bembury. The offering – titled Moncler ēquipements – draws inspiration from an archive Moncler mountaineering line from the late 1950s, rendered with modern utilitarian accents in burnt oranges, moss greens, and browns. The accompanying campaign was filmed by Hala Matar and photographed by Lauren Kim and captures a group of hikers entering into the elements on a California-inspired forest trail. Click here to see more.

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KIRSTEN DUNST BECOMES FASHION DESIGNER

Kirsten Dunst – AKA Mary Jane Watson and Marie Antoinette – has designed a collection with illustrator and designer Jessica Herschko for Coach. Dubbed Coach x Observed By Us, the offering comprises embroidered t-shirts, hoodies, floral dresses, and jeans which riff on Americana archetypes. “We started Observed By Us to create clothing and other items with images that evoke a special, happy feeling and a sense of appreciation for both the natural and the man-made,” said Herschko. Click here to browse the collection.

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SLAWN TAKES OVER FLANNELS

As part of FLANNELS’ Youth-Phoria series that has been taking place over the last few months, artist Slawn was given the opportunity to curate a takeover of the retailer’s Oxford Street flagship. Opening today, The Art Kiosk installation will run for three weeks with Slawn debuting an array of his own work alongside a couple of pieces from other emergent talents like Soldier Boyfriend. Head down to 161-167 Oxford Street to see more.

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IMRUH ASHA WILL PICK THE NEXT BIG THING

The Fashion Trust Arabia announced the advisory panel for its 2023 prize, including Dazed’s fashion director Imruh Asha. Taking place in Doha on October 23, Asha will be joined by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Tiffany Godoy, Carlijn Jacobs, Carlos Nazario, Rafael Pavarotti, and Tyler Mitchell – who will award the winning designer a $100,000 to $200,000 cash prize (depending on the size of their business) plus $25,000 for the Franca Sozzani Debut Talent Award. Head over here to read more.

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Courtesy of Nike

JUMPMAN BECOMES JUMPWOMAN

For the first time ever, Nike’s Jordan Jumpman becomes Jumpwoman, as the legendary sportswear label drops a new line of jerseys crafted with the female body in mind. Released to coincide with the WNBA ASW 2023 games happening in Las Vegas this month, the styles combine Nike’s unrivalled tech know-how with its strong design codes, and of course: that immediately recognisable Michael Jordan-inspired emblem, as part of it brand’s push towards gender equality in sports. More here.

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