Jonathan Anderson has a Mubi account and he is NOT afraid to use it! Each season, the designer attempts to out-random himself with an unlikely cast of cult collaborators – among them Anthony Hopkins, Sandy Powell, and Takeshi Kitano – all of whom have taken centre stage in recent Loewe campaigns. But Chlöe Sevigny has always been a constant; she was the face of JW Anderson in 2016 and more recently starred in Loewe’s SS23 Pre-Collection. She was also stood outside the designer’s AW23 venue this afternoon begging showgoers to let loose and get laid.
The image of prudence – wrapped up in a pale blue ribbon and a sciuraglam fur coat – Sevigny told us the worst piece of advice she had ever received was “don’t kiss every Tom, Dick, and Harry”. Because, as she said, “I kiss them all.” If Sevigny wasn’t an OG It girl (and muse to Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Mugler, Proenza Schouler, Vivienne Westwood, Chloé etc) it’s likely the kind of soundbite that would get recycled on some sort of Love of Huns account. Perhaps that’s what Anderson was angling for all along, though. After all, the wifi code backstage was literally “Live, Laugh, Loewe” and the show itself was soundtracked to the instrumental version of Nicki Minaj’s “Roman's Revenge” (which is now more meme than music).
Just as people use that song to sprint through a digitised Versailles on TikTok, the collection seemed to be about speed, flight, and escape. Two-piece sets were festooned in grey, lilac, and lapis lazuli feathers, silk slips were laser-printed with blurred-motion dresses, and models walked with satin sheets clasped to their chests as if they had been forced to make an early morning exit. There was an urge to break free from the conventions of fashion itself, too, with Polly Pocket dresses rendered in plump leather and strapless gowns held in place by floating balls, while cable-knit cardigans had been printed (trompe-l'œil-style) with crinkled fabric. Click through the gallery above to see the rest of Loewe’s AW23 collection at Paris Fashion Week.