...and more fashion news you missed
At the AW23 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Alectra Rothschild staged her own funeral, swapping out the hearse for a motorcycle and the pallbearers for high-femme nightriders with janky hair extensions. The fashion film – titled RIP Masculina – was made in conjunction with members of Rothschild’s own community, among them Cockwhore and Macho, DJ G2G, and performer Thea Carla Schott. Togas were draped across the body in ruched tiers, cocktail dresses were strung together from sinuous bits of netting, and iridescent blazers were punctured with harness cut-outs. There were pube-baring track pants, boob-baring LBDs, and frou-frou mini dresses whipped up with swatches of deadstock fabrics. Watch the video above.
In other fashion news this week, Gucci got a new creative director, while the SS23 campaigns began to trickle onto newsfeeds, and a new fashion mentorship scheme was launched. Jenna Ortega was announced as the face of adidas, Marc Jacobs’ AW23 show paid homage to Vivienne Westwood, and London’s lawyers were forced to dress like Rusical contestants. For everything else you may have missed, click through the gallery below.
NIKE AND TIFFANY MAKE A BABY
This week, Tiffany released its first-ever sneaker made in collaboration with (of course) Nike – a pair of black Air Force 1s with a Tiffany blue swoosh, “for a more subtle flex”. It also came with a silver shoe shorn but the advertising campaign confused people: Why was a toothbrush included? Smart people realised it was to clean the suede, not the teeth. Click here to see more from the collab.
NET-A-REPARATIONS
Residents of the White Lotus will be thrilled! Net-a-Porter has announced that it will be partnering with The Seam to launch a dedicated customer care and repair offering in the UK. The service will connect NAP customers with trusted makers from their local community so they can get their bags and shoes altered and repaired. Head here to read more about that.
(8) HE WAS A SKATERBOY (8)
One for the litty lengy cheeky chappies, Palace has released a one-off track on vinyl written by Will Oldham and Matt Sweeney, featuring Mdou Moctar and his band. “Palace Things” is a “hymn” to the London skate community and will be released with a t-shirt emblazoned with the cover artwork. See more of that here.
MARNI GOES EAST
This week, just before Marc Jacobs went off schedule to show in New York, so too did Francesco Risso. Staged in Tokyo, the designer laid on his behemoth AW23 show, punctured with polka-dots, geometric squares, and primary colours. There were loads of outsized jackets, mohair knits, over-stuffed sweaters, and 2D slip dresses. Risso also refashioned draft excluders into brushed-cotton scarves, which was fun. Watch the show here.
KIKO GOES TO HEAVEN
Laura and Deana Fanning collaborated with Marc Jacobs’ Heaven on a bookish capsule of flared mini skirts, deconstructed sweaters with useless sleeves, two-way sweaters, and knitted crop tops. The link-up compounded the Kiko designers’ interest in niche youth culture imprints, dovetailing with its Hysteric Glamour collaboration. Head over to Dover Street Market to see more.
SIMONE ROCHA’S MEN ARRIVE
Also at DSM this week is the launch of Simone Rocha’s debut menswear collection, which she showcased during her SS23 show. Puff-sleeve bomber jackets, pearl-embroidered shirts, harness-strapped cargo trousers, and four-sleeve jackets: the offering is accompanied by a one-off zine shot by Rosie Marks.
GERRIT JACOB DESIGNS SCUM
The embodiment of an airbrushed helter-skelter, Gerrit Jacob’s AW23 collection just got its unveiling. Titled Scum, shrunken biker jackets, padded hoodies, overblown trousers, and baby tees have all been handpainted with beastly apparitions. See more of that here.
66°NORTH AND GANNI GET TOGETHER
Over in Copenhagen, Ganni’s AW23 runway featured a collaboration with 66°NORTH, a high-performance outerwear label based in Iceland. It’s the fourth time the two brands have come together and this collection included technical windbreakers with Stabilo Boss-yellow panels, alongside padded bombers, cargo pants, and skirts. The capsule will get its big release when Ganni’s AW23 offering drops.
ARIES IS GETTING JUICY
Juicy Couture and Aries have linked up on a collaborative capsule inspired by Nudie Cohn – the OG rhinestone cowboy and all his nudie suits. Gram Parsons was also on the mood board and his trademark white suit has been reimagined in velour. Sex, drugs, rock and roll, etc. Click here to shop the collection.
BUSTIER BOYS
Sarah Burton debuted her AW23 menswear collection for Alexander McQueen this week. Everything looked as though it had been sliced at a knife’s edge, with three-button bustiers, crisp-pleated shirts, and hourglass trench coats. Blazers had been spliced across the navel so that its bottom half dropped and formed a skirt-like silhouette over slim-tailored trousers, while actual skirts were printed with faded orchids – this season’s motif. Head over here to see more.