Sure, sexy is subjective – but there’s no denying the horny appeal of these 10 iconic shows
Gucci AW96GUCCI AW96
Tom Ford is synonymous with selling sex, an exercise he triumphed in during his tenure at Gucci, where f*cking was the focus of many major campaigns. Despite not dropping the original Gucci G-string (for women and men) until SS97, it was the house’s AW96 collection that saw him initially flirt with the idea, developing slinky floor length dresses with suggestive cut out panels that highlighted metal hip details. Described by Vogue as “The fashion equivalent of a one night stand at Studio 54,” elsewhere the collection proposed fluid trailoring and sharp shirts that gaped below even the midriff.
Givenchy AW11GIVENCHY AW11
“There’s more sex than usual,” Riccardo Tisci acknowledged backstage after a seductive display that fixated on the Bettie Page of it all. A widely-celebrated highlight of the designer’s time at the French fashion house, AW11 played out like a modern class on pencil skirt etiquette (the iconic silhouette made 34 exits of a possible 42, appearing in silk, velvet and transparent organza). With a tight palette of black and purple – accented with yellow and green – panther motifs dominated the uniform, while accessories such as cat-eared hats and furry glasses played into the narrative’s fantasy.
Vivienne Westwood SS94VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SS94
Well versed in clothing of an erotic nature – her King’s Road shop literally screamed ‘SEX’ – Vivienne Westwood’s SS94 Café Society show was, through today’s COVID lens, a beautiful nightmare. Intimately set-up with photographers gathered on the floor, the show first flexed with fishnets and cleavage before its mid-point performance saw models dressed in knitted thongs licking – and sharing – Magnum ice creams. Kate Moss later followed, doing a casual lap of the leopard print carpet, ice cream in hand and naked but for a ‘mini crin’, low hanging orb necklace, platform heels, and an extravagant hat. John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier were amongst those gathered to get a look in.
Photography Lillie EigerHOOD BY AIR SS17
“I realised that people view Hood by Air the same way porn is being viewed,” noted Shayne Oliver in conversation with Dazed in 2016, the day after the label’s tenth anniversary show in New York. The result? He teamed up with Pornhub and Hustler to put on a show. With the word ‘wench’ plastered across necklines and down torsos; models’ heads coated in lube, and zips, a key motif of the HBA makeup, played in heavy rotation throughout. Notable struts came from No Bra and Wolfgang Tillmans, who each made turns in black plants, wool coats, and heavy leather boots.
Jean Paul Gaultier Menswear 1983JEAN PAUL GAULTIER MENSWEAR 1983
Before cones entered the conversation and a full decade ahead of Eurotrash arriving on TV, French fashion’s L’enfant Terrible was already set on subverting gender, informing his catwalk shows with aesthetic twists and political turns. Presented in 1983, Gaultier’s L’Homme Objet – ‘The Male Object’ – collection saw the designer recast men in the role of the objectified, playing into homoerotic themes with a line-up of skimpy looks that at the time courted intrigue. While little media exists of the show today, the image of a muscular young man in a backless striped tee remains iconic.
Alexander McQueen SS98ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SS98
Suggestively titled ‘Golden Shower’ (but ultimately renamed Untitled following sponsor complaints), McQueen’s SS98 show ran the gamut of sexual desire. From the off breasts were pulled up high, proposing an erotic accent to otherwise polished tailoring, while sheer fabrics and hole-punched leather competed with sci-fi inspired swimwear for most daring. Figure-defining bustier styles made a strong statement, most notably those worn by men (models walked in varieties of plain leather and silver glitter), while long leather gloves affixed across the body and Shaun Leane designed metal pieces further underscored the figure. Concluding the procession was a poetic reworking of a wet T-shirt competition, as looks of all white were drenched with ‘rain’.
Photography Christina FragkouMOWALOLA AW19
“You’re basically wearing what you want to get f*cked in,” Mowalola Ogunlesi told Vogue backstage at Fashion East’s AW19 show, her debut on the official calendar. Easily likened to a kind of armour, Ogunlesi’s clothes boast a natural energy; a refreshing confidence that reads equal parts modern and sexy. Almost exclusively comprised of leather, the bright coloured pieces were cut to highlight flesh, while the show’s styling and beauty details only amplified the presentation. Covering Dazed’s SS19 issue in Mowalola’s wares, McQueen muse Debra Shaw remarked that they “gave me a superhero confidence.”
Chloé SS01CHLOÉ SS01
The marriage of fruit and horses – the key motifs of Stella McCartney’s SS01 collection at Chloé – remains a unique one. Ultimately a winner (see: the power in Jessica White straddling the sand in the accompanying campaign), McCartney’s banana and pineapple littered line-up remains a high point for millennials who read Vogue too young. At times cheeky – “keep your bananas off my melons” read the back of a top fronted by banana ‘cups’ – other times artful, the show played with necklines and experimented with shoulders, evoking hot summer romances with its feminine codes and flyaway fabrics.
Versace AW92VERSACE AW92
A seminal show that continues to reverberate today – you’ll recall Lil Nas X’s hot pink Grammys look from last year – Gianni Versace’s AW92 collection was a charged up affair that made a shocking debut, presented against the backdrop of the unfolding aids crisis. Suzy Menkes famously dismissed Versace’s Miss S&M offering – “I don’t want women to be sex objects or any of that” – while other editors at the time likened its relationship with porn to the 1950s. Borrowing from bondage, Versace made an overwhelming argument for straps, buckling models up from the torso and across the décolletage, while big leather coats, skinny leather trousers, and studded full leather looks further tapped into the mood.
via Instagram @palomijaSAVAGE X FENTY VOL.2
Does it get any hotter than a Savage x Fenty show? We’d side with no, not in this universe. Is describing a lingerie show as sexy maybe a little lazy? Probably, but where Rihanna’s concerned the rules don’t exactly apply. Casting Normani as the bride, backed by N*E*R*D’s ‘She Wants To Move’? Fucking epic. Adding menswear to the mix? Bloody smart. See also the appearance of Demi Moore, Rosalia, Shea Couleé, Paris Hilton and so many other beloved cultural icons to the 2020 line-up. An elevated – gender, age, race and size inclusive – take on cute undies, you absolutely love to see it.