The netting and tulle of artist Annette Messager inspired this sculpture-obsessed designer.
Former architecture-student Emilio de la Morena landed an on-schedule slot this season and whilst sculpture was still on de la Morena's mind this season, a softer more feminine approach was applied. Namely this was down to the work of Annette Messager which inspired the collection of an underwater scenery that plays out in fabric drapes, folds and twists in the most delicate of fabrics in white, nude, moss and lilac. It was the sartorial translation of Messager's work and we found out why Emilio got in touch with his feminine side this season.
Dazed Digital: What did you achieve with this collection in relation to the last one?
Emilio de la Morena: Last season was so sculptural, and I'm really passionate about researching artists but they're always really masculine. I've never explored female artists before and there was an exhibition at the Hayward about Annette Messager who I knew beforehand.
I wanted to do something that's purely about women with more ideas of fluidity and I wanted to do something quite different. I wanted the volume to drop in a way and become quite fluid but I think the Emilio de la Morena essence is still there.
DD: What about those faded prints?
Emilio de la Morena: All the prints came from water and I was researching water creatures. A friend of mine did some watercolours for me and we found this image that he drew on top of it, and then I drew on top of it and it went back and forth until we got the final image. He was also inspired by Annette Messenger where she does these fairytale drawings and has water dripping in a way that is nice but all of a sudden becomes dark which is really beautiful.
DD: How do you feel about your first on-schedule show?
Emilio de la Morena: I don't actually believe it! It's taken a while but finally I'm here!