Kris Van Assche has been designing Dior Homme for a decade now, creating collections that blend super-sharp tailoring with styling cues borrowed from youth and subculture. Today, in the Grand Palais’ Salon d’Honneur, his AW18 models hit a runway decorated with three towering glass vitrines that were loaded with flashing lights, and progressively filled with smoke throughout the show. Here’s what went down.

KARL LAGERFELD WAS THERE, AND HE DEBUTED A NEW LOOK

Karl often shows up at Dior Homme – once, he actually photobombed a Snapchat video @dazedfashion were filming of A$AP Rocky. This season though, the Chanel and Fendi designer didn't just show up, he showed up with a surprising new accessory – a beard. Lagerfeld doesn’t often change his look, but we are firm fans of the update.

THE THEME OF THE SHOW WAS FOREVER YOUNG

Which rung out over the speakers, along with other 80s classics like Aha’s “Take On Me”. Channeling the spirit of rebellious teen dressing, shoelaces trailed across the floor, long sleeves were worn under short sleeves, and trousers and jeans were super wide, as part of a play on skate and rave style.

THERE WERE OLDER MODELS IN THE LINE-UP

Five distinguished-looking older gentlemen took to the runway alongside the usual crew of tall, skinny Dior boys. Consider it a statement on how youth is a frame of mind, not a number.

TRIBAL PRINTS ARE DEFINITELY BACK

If last night’s Vetements show wasn’t enough to convince you that those v. 90s market stall tribal prints were about to make a comeback, then Van Assche might just sway you. Drawing heavily on them for AW18, they appeared across shirts, parkas, suits and accessories. Some models even had the pattern shaved into their hair – perfect if you want an AW18 runway look but aren’t quite ready to make a commitment as big as the Gosha x adidas look we saw in Yekaterinburg.

ALSO, MORE TINY SHADES

Don’t say we didn’t warn you. Van Assche’s models wore small dark glasses with cut out metal arms that reflected the collection’s tribal motif. Tiny shades ambassador and Dior girl Bella Hadid was also in attendance, wearing a pair of the glasses and a bespoke patterned suit from the collection.