With the current speed of fashion, sometimes years will pass in the blink of an eye. That is the case for designer Phoebe English, who last week celebrated six years since she started her eponymous label. What better way to contemplate how far she has come in that time, than by throwing a retrospective show at the V&A for its Fashion in Motion series. Following in the footsteps of Meadham Kirchhoff, Grace Wales Bonner and Molly Goddard – who held her own show back in July – English wanted to look back over her archive.
“It isn’t like a traditional birthday but I feel like six years in fashion years is like dog or cat years. It’s probably like 85 years old or something,” English joked at the presentation. Taking over the Raphael Gallery, there were podiums spread across the room that charted her design journey, from her debut MA collection to the recent SS18 collection, with iconic moments revived like the AW11 hair collection – all styled by Another Man’s Ellie Grace Cumming.
“I think fashion is so fast-paced. You do the next one and then the next one and it’s like a kind of hamster wheel situation but you never contemplate the collection you’ve just done” – Phoebe English
In addition to the impressive revived archive pieces that were remade for the show (“an extraordinary journey in itself remembering how to make these things,” the designer shared) each of the looks were made twice – the second on a smaller scale for the puppets that accompanied their model counterparts. The puppets came courtesy of Judith Hope, who English first collaborated with on the SS18 collection. “Puppets have their own dramas,” the designer said, who worked closely with Livia Haueter to create the miniature looks. “Judith is incredible she sort of goes upstairs with an armful of fabric and sticks and then comes down with these living creatures. They have so much personality.” Throughout the presentation, stagehands brought the puppets down from their hanging positions to dance in front of their twins.
Unsurprisingly, English was feeling very emotional to see her entire legacy out in front of her but it provided the perfect opportunity for her to reflect. “I think fashion is so fast-paced. You do the next one and then the next one and it’s like a kind of hamster wheel situation but you never contemplate the collection you’ve just done.” Now that she has had a chance to look back at her archive, English can look forward to the next milestone.
