This season at Maison Margiela, John Galliano continued where he left off in July’s Artisanal collection, exploring the idea of new glamour. For this, he mined those unconscious moments of dressing – like wrapping a towel around your head or making your way through an airport clutching a travel pillow. Here's what went down.
THE SHOW STARTED WITH AIRPORT NOISES
The all white venue in the Grand Palais was filled with a familiar, if uncanny sound – the noise of airport announcements. They declared imaginary gates for fantasy flights and hinted toward the collection’s travel inspiration.
THE COLLECTION WAS ALL ABOUT DECONSTRUCTION
Ok, no surprises there. The reference points came mostly from leisure pursuits: riding, shooting, hunting – but these familiarities were stripped and deconstructed. A red hunting jacket transformed into a bustier and was worn over a trench coat, while tweedy jackets and plain t-shirts were dissected to just their skeletons, and accented with feathers.
As well as swimming caps and giant silver spikes which protruded from models heads, the make-up look for the show – courtesy of the legendary Pat McGrath – consisted of bright pink lips. As for the hair, from afar it looked like coloured highlights but at a closer look it was actually strands of feathers woven into the models’ hair. Perfectly matched with their outfits – plucking brilliant.
LUGGAGE TAGS ACCESSORISED LOOKS
You know the ones – approved cabin baggage, priority, rush. The colourful, graphic tags hung from jackets and bags, which were often attached to other smaller bags – think glam, avant-garde backpacking.
THERE WAS A MARGIELA NECK PILLOW
Très chic for your next long haul, non? Model Teddy Quinlivan hit the runway with a padded white flight pillow cradling her neck, while others carried plump cushion bags – a new style called the Glam Slam. Travelling in style, the Margiela way.