For his SS18 show, Marc Jacobs returned to the Park Avenue Armoury – but this season was far from the 90s hip hop-inspired AW17 collection he showed there last time. Instead, Jacobs went in a sportswear direction – imagining a fantasy holiday that an urban traveller might go on. He also looked back at his archive, reinventing prints from years ago. Here’s everything you need to know from the show.

THE MODELS WALKED IN SILENCE (MOSTLY)

For SS18, the models stomped across the wooden floor with guests sitting around the edges in the expansive venue rather than down the middle like last time. Similar to AW17, there was no soundtrack and instead, the only sound that could be heard during the show was from the models’ shoes. For the finale, the room echoed with the operatic soundtrack from the 1981 French film Diva as the models walked out en masse. What better way to accompany the opera gloves that some of the models wore?

THEY ALL WORE HEADWRAPS 

Inspired by the MJ look that Kate Moss wore to the 2009 Met Gala, all of the models wore headwraps or silk turbans designed by milliner Stephen Jones – there also seemed to be a strong reference to the patterned scarves (called a range of terms including doek, duku and dhuku) which are traditionally worn by women in Africa. In a variety of colours, sometimes adorned with crystal accessories, they appeared tightly wrapped around the models’ heads or hanging down on one side. Will this usher in another appropriation row? The jury appears to be out. 

THE COLLECTION

The inspiration for SS18 was a fantasy holiday outside the urban landscape of NYC, mixed with a sportswear vibe. Think nylon jumpsuits, oversized outerwear, tinsel-covered trainers and layered bags. Jacobs also reimagined his archive, with prints from previous collections brought back again. Eagle-eyed fans of the New York label may have spotted the retro florals from the 2013 and 2015 Resort collections, for instance.

AND... BUMBAGS ARE BACK

So big they were impossible not to spot were the large bumbags that some of the models wore. Emblazoned with a retro-looking Marc Jacobs logo, maybe this was his way of saying that even the tourist staple can be chic too.