If the last few months in fashion have proven anything, it’s that more and more brands are moving away from traditional show formats. Some – like Proenza Schouler and Rodarte – decided to move from New York to Paris to present during the Couture shows, while Vetements shocked us all by dropping off the runway for good. Italian brand Aniye By is also doing things its own way, presenting its SS18 show off schedule this week in Milan.

Creative director Alessandra Marchi’s aim for this season was to turn the nightclub into a runway, which made sense with the venue for the show. Held in Porta D’Oro – a historic gentleman’s club in the city centre – the low-lighting paired with the mirrored ceilings, crystal chandeliers and plush red carpet walls heightened the sensuality of the collection. As for the clothes themselves, they seemed to be inspired by America, or more specifically the American dream – a message that was emblazoned on tees, along with the word “California”. If that wasn’t clear enough, then the stars-and-stripes printed dress really hit the message home. 

Elsewhere, the collection explored rock ‘n’ roll via Woodstock. Strutting along to a soundtrack of Janis Joplin’s “Piece of My Heart” the models wore floral dresses with lace inserts, sparkly lurex jumpsuits and pointed metallic flats. The ribbons that replaced sleeves of dresses were tied up the arms of models and read “Aniye By Rock and Roll”. Even the more masculine pieces in the collection – like a beige trench coat – were feminised with lace trimming at the hem.

Perhaps more than just tropes of America culture, this was Aniye By’s subtle way of hinting at where the brand might present its next collection... We’ll have to wait and see.