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Daisy AW17 campaignCourtesy of Daisy

Daisy AW17 is inspired by cult horror movie women

For their new collection, designers Renee and Gibson Fox took inspiration from serial killer podcasts and vintage horror films

Inspired by true crime, vintage horror films, and the ‘damsel-in-distress’ figure, Daisy’s new collection is romantic yet eerie. Designers Gibson and Renee Fox developed the range while listening to a series of podcasts and films depicting serial killers in rural towns, and from there became obsessed with mystery, suburbia and female vulnerability. Lingerie details and a palette that reflects interiors from the 70s and 80s play a huge part in the aesthetics of the collection, as well as subtle references to metal/punk music, the afterlife, and fetishism. We spoke to the pair about their horror addiction, this season’s Daisy girls and the sinister themes behind the collection.

What was the theme this season? 

Renee Fox: At the time when we were developing this collection, Gibson was listening to true crime audio books on cult serial killers to fall asleep. We watched some Jeffrey Dahmer and Richard Ramirez documentaries and became obsessed with these suburban horror figures from the late-70s to 80s.

Gibson Fox: You can find the archival videos of police doing walkthroughs of their apartments. We read letters they’d written and watched their prison interviews. You can’t make this stuff up, it's just the weirdest shit. Really chilling.

I think people are fascinated by crime because it often feels so far removed from reality. It’s the same sensation as horror movies. 

Renee Fox: Definitely. And we developed a colour palette drawing from the suburban setting – bedrooms, sheet sets, nightgowns, lingerie, so pastel colours that reflect femininity, against blood red to reflect passion and violence. That’s where we got the basis for the wardrobe. Is it borderline too fucked up? It’s genuinely where the idea came from. It’s a little bit about our fascination with death and the afterlife too – there are fabrications which represent ghostliness, purity and heaven and beyond.

Why is it important for Daisy to be both conceptual and sexy at the same time?

Renee Fox: We’re always thinking about what I want to wear and how our group of girlfriends dress. We imagine all the looks on our friends as we go. We want it to be a meeting of fantasy and reality. That’s the birthplace of the collection. It’s a balance of being wearable and conceptual. 

Do you feel like each collection is a continuation of the previous?

Renee Fox: While we’re expanding the Daisy wardrobe, we also reinvent pieces that we feel are really us. It’s not so much about repetition, but more about emotion and romanticism and the interplay of feminine and fetishism carrying through. 

Are there women in cinema you’re inspired by this season?

Renee Fox: Cape Fear-era Juliette Lewis! We also love Shelley Duval and Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby

Gibson Fox: Jamie Lee Curtis in Halloween. The girls in Nightmare on Elm Street. Amityville Horror’s dollhouse set. 

What’s the soundtrack to the collection?

Gibson Fox: I was listening to Nine Inch Nails, The Dead Boys, Suicide, Ministry, Depeche Mode, Body Count, Richard Hell, KMFDM. 

Who are some notable Daisy girls?

Renee Fox: Petra Collins has such a raw and real presence. She’s beautiful and talented and probably exemplifies this generation. Arvida Byström is like an internet fantasy, she’s almost anime. Bella, Kendall and Kim are touchstones of our era, they’ve made huge waves for us through their support. Our best friend Mateja is a constant reference point for Daisy as well.

“It’s not so much about repetition, but more about emotion and romanticism and the interplay of feminine and fetishism carrying through” – Renee Fox

While being heavily referential, the brand never looks like a set of “costumes” – is that something you’re conscious of? 

Renee Fox: We don’t want it to feel gimmicky, which is something we’ve been aware of from the start with Pure Country. We didn’t want to be pigeonholed into one idea when there are many different reference points. There’s a storytelling approach, while still being tempered by modernity.

I read that censorship in the Australian fashion industry was mildly interfering with the brand – has this become any easier as time has gone on?

Gibson Fox: We are still really proud to be Australian, but it's pretty flat here...

Renee Fox: The fashion media here still act as if our approach is somehow controversial, but that doesn't bother us. At first, we felt misunderstood, but now we feel very comfortable with our vision. We are so well received globally, so there's support elsewhere. We don't take it personally.