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Saint Laurent AW17 dazed pfw Anthony Vaccarello
Saint Laurent AW17Photography Lillie Eiger

Vaccarello does dark glamour for round two at Saint Laurent

And introduces his menswear line

Last night in Paris, Anthony Vaccarello staged his second outing as the creative director of Saint Laurent in a mammoth, 100+ look show. With its dark glamour and daring silhouettes, the AW17 collection built on the design language he introduced in his September debut – think extravagant party dresses with stand-out ruffles, sweetheart necklines, leather, and the occasional nip slip.

This time around, though, there was more variation – tan aviator leather came in the form of dresses with detachable shearling sleeves, and there was even a graphic text print. Grace Jones shoulders and plunging necks made for the kind of clothes a new rock ‘n’ roll icon would slip into before going on stage, while you could imagine models in some of the blindingly sparkly silver numbers going from show to after-party without so much as changing their shoes.

Another big difference from last season – this wasn’t only a womenswear show. Back in January, Vaccarello debuted his menswear collection in a series of imagery shot by Collier Schorr, along with a film featuring Lukas Ionesco. Last night, the boys joined the runway in PVC trousers, lurex knits and leather jackets, their slouchy trousers matching the girls’ boots. It wasn’t quite matchy-matchy or his and her’s – instead the entire group felt like a gang. The kind whose parties you definitely want to be invited to.