NYFW wrapped up tonight, with Marc Jacobs putting on an uncharacteristically silent and supposedly social-media free show.

In a large hall with a runway marked out by two long rows of chairs, models like Winnie Harlow and Natalie Westling walked out to the sound of their own feet against echoing against the wooden floor. It caused initial looks of bewilderment, but with the show notes in mind, it all gradually clicked into place. 

“Respect” was the word Jacobs used to open these, and this silence – particularly in contrast to last season’s bombastic controversy-causing rave – became a conscious decision to make it about the clothes themselves, which the designer intended as a tribute to hip-hop as “the poignant and pivotal cultural movement... which gave way to a whole new language of style” and street fashion. The notes also asked guests to withhold from posting on social media, for the duration of the catwalk we assume.

But really, Jacobs saved the “show” element for the end – when models took their seats against a giant sound system on the street outside, which did finally start playing music after everyone was settled. The designer made the assembled crowd really take in the collection of patterns, flares and furs – a hymn of references orchestrated in a way only Jacobs could master. The social ban was lifted, and in a very meta moment, the models began taking pictures of the crowd who had come to, well, take pictures of them.

Stay tuned for more of our coverage from the show.