The last thing we need right now are answers. We need young designers with questions, and last night Vaquera gave us just that. In an intense, questioning show at the Ukrainian National Home on the Lower East side, the four-person design collective explored ideas of what aspiration means in America right now. 

“Which fabrics are white collar? Which are blue?” they asked in the show notes, as heavy green work wear was made to look chic and French lace looked cheap, a silver plated lobster appeared on a tie, and chef’s whites were made into a bridal gown. There was a palpable tension in the air as their mainly street cast models swept round in circles to the strains of Lil’ Kim’s Pissin On ’Em.

The crowd, which included HBA’s Shayne Oliver, got to see a dress made of American flags with a thirty-foot train, a moment if there was ever one. A mechanic's outfit, replete with heavy duty denim and an auto repair branded t-shirt, was followed by what looked like a Tiffany’s bag reconfigured as a dress. 

Styled by Dazed senior fashion editor Emma Wyman, the collection was crammed full of these ideas that made you look twice. There was also lots to wear, which sounds like a dull observation but nobody wants to just wear concepts. A ruched red top was paired with green shorts, a biker jacket was artfully oversized, and you could imagine the designers themselves wearing it all.  As their after party DJ Miss Dese might say: Come through, Vaquera. It’s lit. 

Stream the soundtrack below: