There’s constantly some sort of plagiarism row going on in fashion. Whether it’s Mango copying Gucci’s silk dresses, Nasty Gal copying Saint Laurent’s platform sandals, designer’s copying other designers, artists or, as was most recently the case, the designs of indigenous cultures and tribes. Last week, London-based fashion label KTZ were in hot water over the “Shaman Towelling Sweatshirt” featured in their AW15 collection – a design which Salome Awa says was copied from her great-grandfather Aua, one of the last Shaman of the Canadian Inuit.

“They must have seen it and copied it,” Awa told The Evening Standard, “They even called the clothing Shaman... My great-grandfather was a very powerful and respected man and he has been used and violated. It was disgusting to see a sacred design used as a sweater... We are a proud people and our ancestors and traditions are very important to us. The way they have taken and degraded this design is unacceptable.” The design itself featured in 2006 film The Journals of Knud Rasmussen as well as some books on the culture of the Inuit such as “Northern Voices”.

In response KTZ, who show at London Fashion Week, have issued a formal apology to Awa saying the brand has “always been inspired by and paid homage to indigenous cultures and tribes around the world” and that it’s part of their DNA to “celebrate multiculturalism as a form of art and to encourage appreciation for traditions, ethnicities and religions’ diversity”. As well as emphasising the multiculturalism of their company, they said that the Inuit community was credited in the press release and that they have already removed the item from sale.

Awa’s response to the apology was bittersweet, telling CBC North, ““I’m kind of happy about it but sad at the same time... They didn’t even mention an apology to my great-grandfather and they didn’t even offer any monetary gains to our family... This is a stolen piece. There is no way that this fashion designer could have thought of this exact duplicate by himself.” Awa goes on to say that she has some questions from the brand. “Why did you not ask us in the first place?” she asks. “How they obtained the exact replica? Why did they not ask our family? Did they not think we exist? Why are they doing this to other indigenous clothing?” 

Read KTZ’s full letter to Salome Awa below:

Dear Salome 

Thank you so much for contacting us and for giving us a chance to express our point of view.

Over the last 20 years KTZ has always been inspired by and paid homage to indigenous cultures and tribes around the world.

It’s part of KTZ’s DNA to celebrate multiculturalism as a form of art and to encourage appreciation for traditions, ethnicities and religions’ diversity. 

At the time the piece in question was released (January 2015) the Inuit community was credited in our press release and online features, for example http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/ktz

KTZ is a very small UK based company - with a team counting less than 15 people employed across the globe and with ethnic backgrounds ranging from Macedonian, Greek, Portuguese, Polish, German, Italian, Dutch, Japanese, Nigerian, Chinese and Indonesian. Our work is never intended to offend any community or religion.

We sincerely apologise to you and anyone who felt offended by our work as it certainly wasn’t our intention. 

We have already removed the item from sale online and will remove the item in question from our stores.

Kindest regards

KTZ