Loewe AW15

Initial reaction:

“I feel like boredom is the biggest problem in fashion,” said J.W. Anderson after his striking SS15 debut at Loewe. This season the designer returned with his unique propensity for exploring the tension between the complementary and contradictory – proving that there's no room for monotony where he’s concerned. As with his own eponymous label, Anderson looked to the 80s for inspiration – it a was a gamble that risked feeling tacky, but it had a level of severity that threw everything off kilter, and made his designs feel new and exciting. “There’s more of an energy, like she was hit by a lightning bolt,” he explained backstage of the Loewe woman for AW15.

Back to the future:

The tropes of the decade often damned as kitsch were reimagined to suit the tastes of the current generation. Modernist geometric prints – like Bauhaus through an 80s lens – were patterned across dresses layered over metallic trousers. Butter soft leather jackets in classic slouchy silhouettes and longline overcoats were presented in throwback pastel hues, worn with brown tinted glasses, while hair was pulled back – recalling David Bowie during his Thin White Duke era.

Righteous reunion:

Earlier in the week, Anderson talked us through his Larry Clark obsession (“I’ve loved everything he’s done since Kids. I felt like such a rebel going to see it”) and the process behind creating a zine with the cult filmmaker’s photographs of the cast of his latest release, The Smell of Us. For the show, Clark joined the audience to support his newfound collaborator.