Lucas Nascimento AW15

Initial reaction:

Sensual yet cocooning, slouchy elegance served with a dose of grown-up tinsel. True to house style, Nascimento also played a reveal and conceal game – slicing sparkly jumpers with a sheer orange stripe across the nipples or as a way to highlight joints at elbows and knees.

The C word:

Comfort can be a bit of a dirty word in womenswear, where the idea of being anything but trussed up inevitably means you haven’t made an effort. Nascimento went against this with a languid yet tough ease, enveloping his women in loose knit jumpsuits and leather coats lined with knitted woollen-like textures, and thoughtfully lined potentially scratchy Lurex jumpers with cashmere to make them soft against the skin. The housecoat – the ultimate slacker piece – was re-imagined as outerwear in tropical flower jacquards overlaid with thin mesh inspired by Nascimento’s native Brazil.

The real lives of women:

“I want to make sure the woman who wears it feels really great, not just from the outside, but from the inside as well,” Nascimento explained. “Women are really strong but at the same time they are fragile in a way, and I want to make sure they are protected and they’re having fun. I looked at the women in my family: my mother, my grandmother, my sisters. How do they live? What do they like? What are they doing? What is it that they like to wear? And you know, what they are,” he said of the collection, which seemed dedicated to the lives that women actually lead, rather than the ones designers sometimes imagine they conduct.