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Paul Smith AW15 beige suit jacket model Paris backstage
Backstage at Paul Smith AW15Photography Lea Colombo

Paul Smith AW15

Jamaican ska soundtracks a procession of wide shouldered jackets, triangle pendants and swagger-worthy sheepskin

TextSusie LauPhotographyLea Colombo

Initial reaction:

Paul Smith’s interpretation of the 70s is anything but hackneyed. His early beginnings as a designer weren’t a straightforward reflection of the decade, and that’s why the traits of its tailoring (the wide shoulders, the cinched-in waists) didn’t look out of step. Smith’s palette was inspired by the travel adventures of Josef and Anni Albers, and there was a subtle hint of 70s new age talisman – as seen in the triangular invite, the triangular seating set-up and the triangular t-shirts and necklaces.  

How they walked:

To the soundtrack of Jamaican ska group Toots & The Maytals’ “54-46 Was My Number” – these lads swaggered and walked with a deliberate insouciance, throwing cheeky glances at the audience.  

The bling coat:

In these below zero temperatures, men have been hitting the shows with big fur coats sitting on the shoulders of their suited selves. Paul Smith has taken this cue, but rendered this old school bling status symbol into shaggy sheepskin – James Brown and the like would have worn real deal fur in the 70s, but for the now, these faux versions seemed more real.

The soundtrack to Paul Smith AW15