“I wanted to go about the looks in a playful way, like a teenager would,” says make-up artist Thomas de Kluyver. On this shoot – working with Yves Saint Laurent Beauté’s new Black Fetish collection – he draws his inspiration from rebellious youth subcultures. Val Hennessy’s 1978 punk book In the Gutter lies on the table with tearaway teens in leather and bondage jewellery on its pages. Beside it, twenty-year-old model Valery Kaufman is styled in a punky black wig that falls somewhere between Siouxsie Sioux and Joan Jett.
“We were looking from the late 70s to the mid 80s – punks, goths,” de Kluyver says, but taking “a more modern approach, making it feel less forced than those references.” Rebellious in his application, he smudges Rouge Pur Couture lipstick under the eyes, paints Baby Doll eyeliner on the lips, and plays with the textures in the collection “in a different way from how you normally would.” Did Kaufman, star of Saint Laurent’sAW14 campaign, have an experimental goth phase? “I was a girly girl!” she laughs. “But now I’m really into smoky eyes, grunge and red lipstick. A little bit rock‘n’roll.”