So, exactly how did the Jacquemus girl lose all her clothes on the beach? “She doesn’t really care – she just lost them,” Simon Jacquemus laughed backstage. Always one to subvert French stereotypes with a heavy dose of humour, this season the 24-year-old designer mastered the art of warping the idyllic summer vacation. It might be an overplayed theme in the fashion world, but Jacquemus’s decidedly more literal take on the spring/summer collection was toyed with in way that, for all its kitschiness, felt incredibly fresh.
Undone, thrown off balance and topped off with a pair of white adidas trainers. Box-like poplin jackets hung off the shoulders, whilst white cotton mini skirts fell from the hip to reveal red striped bikini bottoms. What began as something that seemed to embrace teenage naivety and sexual awakening, quickly developed into a magnificent series of grown-up geometric 3D garments that extended from the body. Each piece was an adaptation of a parasol, rendered in pop colours including pink, yellow and blue, a clear example of Jacquemus’s skills as a designer.
Over the past few seasons, Jacquemus has master the ability to convey narratives with his show environments – remember his AW13 collection inside an abandoned swimming pool? Today’s show space was filled with abandoned deck chairs, giant parasols and inflatable swimming rings and set to the sounds of (in his own words) “cheesy” French pop.