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Backstage at Peter Pilotto SS15
(from left) Vittoria Ceretti (ELITE London) Hollie-May Saker (Models 1) Kid Plotnikova (FM) Olivia David (ELITE) backstage at Peter Pilotto SS15Photography Lea Colombo

Peter Pilotto SS15

Woodstock and Jimmy Hendrix inspire disco brights, craft embellishment and tough girl biker jacket styling

Initial reaction:

The Peter Pilotto girl got tough: signature bright prints came outlined in black or overlaid with shadowy, leaf silhouettes. Despite the sexy, glossy dresses and wispy hankerchief hems, boxy sleeveless biker jackets and bright chunky sports sandals by Nicholas Kirkwood ensured no look slipped into girlishness.

Surface details:

This season, the duo’s intricate, complex prints evolved instead into elaborate embellishment. “We wanted to elevate the craft element in our work,” Peter Pilotto said backstage of the sequins, crystals and braiding that crept into play, snaking over the print patterns – and bright crystal and perspex discs that studded black two-pieces like dots of light in a city night skyline. Christopher de Vos furthered that they’d been inspired by psychedelia and Jimmy Hendrix, light installations from the fifties and sixties, as well as Woodstock and Burning Man. The mini hems, pinafore-style cuts, paisley motifs and boot cut trousers certainly hit on the groupie throwback vibe that has been surfacing recently.

Disco fantastic: 

The large, coloured Perspex windowpanes that formed the set – designed by Alex de Betak – brought to mind light-up dance floors and revolving disco lights. The concept seemed reflected in kaleidoscopic stain glass-like coats and dresses pieced together with metallic and glossy coloured rectangle panels.