Call it resort. Call it cruise. Or do as Miuccia Prada does and call it Croisière. Whatever you want to call these profiteering inter-season collections, they're making their presence known with bigger and more extravagant shows. Miu Miu's "Croisière" show, was presented on the eve of haute couture week in Paris at their favoured Palais d’Iena venue, in another meticulously OMA-articulated space, carpeted and cosied up for an intimate cruise show.
Soul songstress Josephine Oniyama got proceedings going with her soothing vocals giving way to Deee-Lite's house banger "What is Love". Lady Miss Kier's exuberant aping of the 60s was definitely one visual clue to Miu Miu's vision for cruise. On the demure end of the scale, we had navy mod shifts and sleek retro-tinted trouser suits in the manner of Parisian Yé-Yé girls in the 1960s. On the psychedelic end, Milton Glaser-esque prints flourished on mini dresses and with trailing chiffon neck scarves, anchored by homespun crochet vests. They clutched drawstring bags, liberated from baggage. This Françoise Hardy meets Endora from Bewitched creature sashayed her way down the geometric carpet to The Jackson 5 and Aretha Franklin. The music festivities carried on after the show and dinner as Jack White thrashed out tracks from his latest solo album Lazaretto with the likes of director Steve McQueen and campaign star Stacy Martin in the audience.
The best thing about the show? The way Miuccia emerged at the end. Not peeking her head around the corner in a blink and you'll miss her way. But walking all the way down alongside the lounge-esque runway of mirror box seating and mid-century chairs, laughing and smiling as though she was in the company of friends at a dinner party. Some were friends, but the rest? Just fans of the complete and exacting vision of Miuccia and the way she gives as much thought to the wildflower blooms in geometric wooden vases on dinner tables as she does to the clothes.