Initial reaction:

In place of last season’s Brassaï pops of colour came pops of rich texture and tactile surface play. Astrakhan coats had frayed wool edges and dark dresses came scattered with graphic appliqué. A series of wool coats had a print that looked like a warped cheetah pattern, or the random shapes of cells.

How they wore it:

Models walked holding languid fur muffs in one hand, leaving it to dangle by their side. Coats slipped off the shoulder, some clutched in place over the heart by the model. Buttons wound their way up coats and over shoulders, and softly folded corsages in a loose rose shape were pinned to lapels – in a contrasting bright colour, or a matching print.

Stand out looks:

The full knit looks with exaggerated bell-bottoms, the flare starting at the ankle – some looked frayed, or ripped around the hem. A half tailored wool, half ombre astrakhan coat, and the final wispy embroideries on the final dress and coats, like soft porcupine spines.

Accessories:

Large dangling trinket earrings with gemstones, tassels and mesh, worn on just one ear. Exaggerated gemstone shaped Perspex bracelets and choker necklaces were worn two at a time, in contrasting hues of transparent purple, marigold and seafoam green. Boxy bags with heavy stitching were held like parcels, and a coat came cinched in with a fur belt.

The set:

A slatted wood floor runway, with tropical foliage dotted around the space – reminiscent of a secluded veranda on a holiday retreat. It reflected the relaxed, slouchy vibe of the collection.

Models: Kassandra Jensen (@Kassandrajensen), Ophelie Guillermand (@ophelieguillermand), Axel Borowska, Kremi Otashliyska, Maartje Verhoef (@maartjeverhoef), Julia Nobis, Annemijn Dijs (@annemijndijs), Ola Munik (@olamunik), Katlin Aas (@AasKatlin), Lexi Boling (@lexiboling), Ine Neefs (@ineneefs), Kate Grigoreva, Hedvig Palm (@hedvigpa), Kinga Rajzak, Olivia David (@OliviaRDavid), Phillipa Hemphrey (@PHemphrey)