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Grace Mahary (IMG), Imaan Hammam (Viva) and Mariana Santana (Monster) backstage at Bottega Veneta AW14Shot by Paolo Musa

Bottega Veneta AW14

A lesson in pleats, from graphic wool panels to sculpted micro drapery and technical appliqué

TextEmma WymanPhotographyPaolo Musa

Initial reaction:

Clear, concise, streamlined and linear: creative director Tomas Maier was said to be inspired by strength and confidence.

Pleats please:

A progression of pleats through the show, from soft, chubby wool coats with thick hem pleats, to graphic wool dresses with paneled pleat skirts and spliced colour, and finally to delicate Fortuny-esque micro pleats. The micro pleated looks were almost sculpted; coerced into drapery which swirled around the body.

Stand out look:

Binx Walton in a monochrome heavily textural dress, with printed and pleated appliqué that looked almost like plastic. Technical and tactile, yet light and airy in appearance.

How they wore it:

Heels and boots came with jagged, cut out ankles, which imitated in shape the graphic splices of colour in the collection.

Unexpected details:

Amid the elegant draped shifts and cashmere came a daring black dress interspersed with panels of black satin and blink-and-you-missed-it, seductive windows of sheer.

Models: Ola Rudnicka, Grace Mahary (@gracemahary), Imaan Hammam (@imaanhammam), Mariana Santana (@mariaanasantana), Malaika Firth (@malaikafirth), Binx Walton (@waltonleona), Anna Ewers (@AnNaEwers), Lexi Boling (@lexiboling), Nastya Sten (@Kusakina_Nastya), Cristina Piccone (@cristinapiccone), Ysaunny Brito (@Ysaunny_Brito), Charlene Hoegger, Frances Coombe (@Francescoombe), Jing Wen, Josefin Gustafsson (@gustafsson_), Maartje Verhoef (@maartjeverhoef).