Roberto Cavalli AW14

Initial reaction:

Tough romance: an artisanal and opulent take on rock n roll as Roberto Cavalli (who was chatting to guests and press before the show) takes hold of the reins of his menswear again for AW14.

Cinematic:

A film titled ‘Categories of Being’ by Nicolas Randall played on a photographer's backdrop screen before the first model emerged – watch below. A model in snakeskin trousers awakes in the middle of a volcanic desert landscape, and races past burning houses and acrid smoke.

Unexpected details:

Roberto Cavalli's own private landscape photography adorned print shirts, while exotic leather turned out to be studded from the inside to emulate reptile skin, or quilted in the pattern of zebra print. Paint-splattered knits and shirts distorted by brush strokes emphasised the artisanal approach. Scarves were worn long yet tucked at the side into waistbands, and hair was slicked back, thin headbands worn across the forehead.

Stand out looks:

A cascade of shimmering black folds down the front of a shirt, spilling out from a black bomber jacket with velvet zebra skin embellishment, and the final rock star intarsia fox fur coat, worn with black-on-black zebra print trousers.

Atmosphere:

The air was filled with smoke, concealing a paint-splattered interpretation of an artist's studio. A graffitied metal shelving unit with photographer's equipment turned out to be for an actual photographer, who shot the models during the show as they posed against the installations.